I have an '02 EG Classic that I bought in the N Georgia mountains and have since moved back to Dallas, Tx. My mileage SUCKS!!! I know it is the standard Mikuni(sp) and there is only so much it will do, but I'm positive the pins were set in the bike for a high altitude. Are replacing the pins difficult (and no.......I do not have a manual)??? Or, would it be better to replace the carb all together? If I replace the carb, I want to keep the cost as low as I can but still get a good carb, what would you suggest.

 

well, mikuni has tuning guides online and many, many guys love the mikuni.
BUT experience is kinda important to ensure that you don't mess anything up.

a carb will typically have 3 or 4 circuits and the results from each circuit may be dependant on the other circuit(s) working properly.

so maybe you want to find a local tuner.

The Mikuni and the S&S often need to be adjusted if elevation changes...like if you were to ride up the Denver and beyond you might have to rejet the carb(s)


I love the Keihin CV carb ( like was stock 1990~2006 on Harleys and also Kawa and Triumph).
The trick think about the CV is that they self adjust for changes in elevation and I have ridden mine from sea level to 11,000 feet without having to touch the carb. and MPG is mid-40's

CV carbs are all over, but an experienced eye has to ensure that some goof ball with a drill hasn't screwed them up.
I usually buy them for about $40 at swaps and sell for anywhere $130~175. and I run them on my evos
this IS NOT a sales pitch, I don;t have anything for sale.

other good tuning guide is nightrider.com, bike tech, then look for carb tuning on the right side of the page

mike

 

Since I've owned, I have had a couple mechanics look at it and it works like it should, I'm just thinking the pins used are for mountain living since that is where the man lives that I bought it from. If I replace the pins, I might get a little more mileage (right now, I'm lucky to get 110 miles out of a tank and NOT thrashing it.) But, if I replace the carb, damn!!, the cost of the carb is unreal and I cannot afford that kind of money.

 

I too love the CV carb for this reason. Spent 5 days in the Colorado Rockies this summer and compared to our 600 ft above sea level in Minnesota the CV never missed a beat. Ran strong and got 48-50 mph in the mountains!! Compared to 40-44 normally.

.

 

The carb should be running on the lean side if it was tuned in Colorado. Not real sure what a "pin" is. Do you mean the needle clip? The needle and needle jet control the fuel from about a 1/4 to 3/4 throttle settings with the pilot jet and main jet having a little effect on this range. Unless you have a modified engine it should not be hard to find a baseline to get started. I think I would go with the CV carb for its altitude capabilities if you decide on a new carb.

 

OP,

I think you want to find a professional tuner to sort this out- the lack of common terms for carb parts, makes me think that you'd get better results and probably less expense and trouble by taking it to a tech.

or you could study up online.

and the cost of a carb is not "unreal"... I buy 'em for under $50 all the time.
the cost is in the knowledge- you have it = cheep.
you don't have it= $$$

and if you are dumping lots of extra fuel into the motor...that could be polluting your oil and may harm the motor over time...oil smell like gas when you sniff the oil tank?


Mike

 

After looking online and reading about this, I had a "good ol' boy" moment when saying pin. It's actually the needle and from what I can tell, it's just as simple as unscrewing one and replacing it0=. I've been looking online and finding new ones running $400+. The bike has aftermarket ovals (not sure of manufacture) and I am positive the carb was set for higher elevations and now that I am in lower elevations, I'm wondering if changing the needle will get me better fuel economy. Like I had said before, I have had two separate mechanics adjust the carb (without changing any parts) and the best I'm getting is 110 miles to the tank. While I realize this is a carbed bike with the factory carb and it's basically a rolling brick with all the wind resistance, but damn is 110 miles is really the best I can look forward to????

 

Ya thats about 20 MPG. Not to good. Almost sounds like the enrichner is open a little. Like I said earlier the carb should be way lean if it was tuned for Colorado. The needle is tuned by moving a C clip up to lean and lower it to richen. But it should not be that far out of tune. Changing the clip will prolly not help that much. Almost sounds like the main jet is laying in the float bowl. Or the choke is open.

 

The choke is working fine (per the two mechanics), but what do you mean by the jet is laying in the float bowl?? The last guy that looked at it has been a Harley mechanic for a few decades, he adjusted it a bit, but said I might have to consider changing the carb itself. I shouldn't have to replace the carb to get decent/good mileage.........

 

I have seen the main jet fall out and it makes it run very rich but will idle fine. The enrichner plunger can be deformed and appear fine, but it would not want to idle if it was bad.