JIMS Vacuum Fed Fork Filling Tool
#1
JIMS Vacuum Fed Fork Filling Tool
Has anyone used one of these? Tool I love tools, but do you think it is worth the money to save some time and work? Plus I'd love to put some heavier oil in my forks.
http://iwblogger.com/2013/jims-vacuu...-filling-tool/
http://iwblogger.com/2013/jims-vacuu...-filling-tool/
#3
#4
Has anyone used one of these? Tool I love tools, but do you think it is worth the money to save some time and work? Plus I'd love to put some heavier oil in my forks.
http://iwblogger.com/2013/jims-vacuu...-filling-tool/
http://iwblogger.com/2013/jims-vacuu...-filling-tool/
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac...ump-39522.html
I'm wondering if anyone has photos of how to do this? I'm interested because I went to a local indy today and they want $300 to do this service. I wasn't interested in taking the forks off myself, etc to do it so this looks like a good, quick solution.
#5
#6
"To drain the fork, simply insert the tapered fitting into the drain hole and create a vacuum using a standard Mityvac hand pump. Once you reach approximately 23 lbs. of vacuum pressure rotate the valve and instantly the vacuum will draw the pre-measured amount of fork fluid into the fork tube."
The MityVac container will not hold all of the fluid that's in one fork leg. I assume you have to keep emptying the container and start the vacuum process over again until all of the fluid is removed. The container holding the new fluid appears to be large enough to hold the correct amount though.
Concept looks good, we're wait for your feed back......
The MityVac container will not hold all of the fluid that's in one fork leg. I assume you have to keep emptying the container and start the vacuum process over again until all of the fluid is removed. The container holding the new fluid appears to be large enough to hold the correct amount though.
Concept looks good, we're wait for your feed back......
#7
Here are the steps I took:
-Have a service manual handy
-Have the right tools (low profile 36mm socket..avail for $16 and a switch alignment tool) You can get by without either, but like I said..the right tools
Here is a pic of both of these tools:
-Have a replacement copper washer to go under the head of the drain screw
-Have a replacement oring for under the 36mm cap screws
-Remove the ignition switch stem
-Remove the inner faring cap. Now the top fork 36mm heads are accessible
-Remove the drain screw down low and in the rear of each leg
-Remove 36mm cap screw to allow all fluid to drain
-Pump forks a few times to ensure all fluid is out
-Reinstall fork leg screw with new copper washer to torque spec
-Fill from the top with 11 oz of your choice of fork oil, pumping a little as you go, easy pumps, nothing drastic
-Install new orings and torque 36mm cap screw to spec
-Reinstall inner faring cap and switch stem
-Take a picture of your old fork oil and post it here on the forum!
Mine looked like this at about 15K:
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#8
Thanks Lowcountry Joe - this looks too simple! Do you need to jack up the front end or can this be done on the jiffy stand? Why wouldn't HD suggest this method as an alternative in the service manual? I'm at 21K and the specs say to do it at 50K....too long.
#9
You must remember that HD thrives on service dollars, which equates to time and materials consumed in their shop. Their are numerous examples of procedures in the service manual where many of the extra steps they list can be avoided while still performing a successful and quality service. Thing is, the HD techs skip those steps too, but they still charge you for the time it would have taken them to do the job had they followed all the steps.
#10
The dealer charged me $700.00 to remove the forks, replace internal stuff they say needs replacing and reassemble. They said this is the only way they would service the forks and take responsibility for the work. all I wanted was a heavy fork oil change to stop the diving. I paid it once I'm not paying that kind of money again.