I was careful too, but with pushing, pulling, twisting, etc - I had a broken wire connection at the base of a molex pin....... But I know your pain!!! Apes kicked my butt for a couple days, I cried uncle, and called BR. He sent me a set of apes with wires ran in them. Bars were a little pricey (but I think worth it) but he only charges I think $50-$60 to run the wires in his bars...... Best $50 I ever spent. Just soldered on switches and plugs to his pre-ran wires and threw them on the bike......

 

Take 10mins to lay your tank back up there and plug it in for a quick check without bolting everything up. Im pretty sure the fuel pump is needed to complete the circuit. I could be wrong, but I would try before trouble shooting further. Sometimes it the simple things. I wired up a hogtunes sound system with an amp, freaked out when I didn't have power to the amp. After checking all the wiring,etc...I realized that the cigarette lighter outlet did not have a fuse. Like I said, sometimes its the simple things. Put the gas tank back on for a quick check.

 

Also a possibility that you could have your ignition switch out of alignment. You won't get any fire to anything if that's the case.

 

When I did mine, I staggered the wire splices as not to bunch the soldering in one place and heat shrunk each wire so that any solder welds dont rub on anything. I also drew diagrams with the corresponding wire colors to the molex. I also covered the wire bunch real tight and greased em before running em down the bars. If the connectors are right and I were you I would pull everything back out and re-check every wire you spliced making sure nothing happened during the pull which is the danger point where things can go wrong. If nothing comes on, and I were to guess what might have gone wrong I would say the molex reconnect might have been mixed up. I had to redo several wires even with the diagram because of the similarities with colors. Def don't loose it or you can really pooch it further.

 

Your tank need not be connected to have the bars work properly. You can skip over that idea.

When you say that absolutely NOTHING happens, I am going to take you very literally.

When removing the batwing fairing, there are many plugs that are disconnected, including the plug/wiring for the ignition switch itself.

Take another look at the other wiring harnesses, and make sure that all connections are made. I am betting that there is another connection that hasn't been completed yet, leading to nothing happening.

Also, take a look at the maxifuse as well. It's outside the main fuse box, and I believe it's 40 amps. It's physically larger than the mini fuses used in the main fuse box.

Hope you get it sorted!

 

Ignition key could very well be the issue. It can click but not turn anything on.

 

When I did mine the first time I didn't have the pins set properly in the connectors. I actually had them to deep and the whole connector did not snap back together properly which held the pins to far away from penetrating the bike end of things. Hence no actual connection and all dead as your describing. After correcting that, the bike fired right up.

 

I got it fixed...it was the ignition switch not reassembled properly. It hit me this morning when I sent someone a PM regarding my problem. Some how I didnt get it together the right way, so absolutely nothing worked when it was turned.

I just came back from a test ride and all is good. Now I just have to wait for the rain to stop and get some miles on it. Thanks to everyone for all the help!

 

Glad you got it all figured out and are back in the saddle.

 

I've had 13" Prime Apes on two bikes now and did the install on both. It was not near the trouble the first time through. Just a little more trouble the second time with TBW but in the end is is all worth the trouble. The comfort improvement is huge. You will love them.