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Hayden at 3000 miles

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  #21  
Old 07-10-2013 | 10:28 AM
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lionsm13
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I changed my PO oil out last week.
I have the Dimick magnetic plug in the drain oil and did not notice any particles of metal on it. It is a very strong magnetic plug too, much more so than the stocker.

I still have the stock comp and the stock auto adjuster and the stock chain seems to be with in specs, about 3/8-1/2 or so I believe it to be.
Guess I'll just leave well enough alone and pass on the Hayden at this point.

I had a Hayden on my evo and did not really notice all that much difference FWIW.
 
  #22  
Old 07-10-2013 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by GPHDXLC
I remember you did something to soften up the springs, did you use just 1 of the springs? I feel the springs are way to stiff on mine and it makes my chain way to tight.
I will up-date after I call Hayden today.
When I received mine, the shoe had odd machining marks inside the well. I put the shoe in the 4 jaw chuck on a lathe and cleaned it out easily. Then since I was in a workshop and had a hand press behind me, I put the springs in there to check the depth of the well and I ended having to cut a bit more nylon to cover the compressed springs with the well without bottoming against the springs. That was part one

Later I compressed everything on a digital scale and found the spring force. That was part two

Part three is time to look up engineering data

Now I'm a happy camper with a theoretical maximum force of 30 lbs just using the large spring. BTW my inner spring is slightly stronger than the larger one.

And remember this: the Hayden tensioner is a very nice product when put in the hands of an experienced mechanics.
 
  #23  
Old 07-10-2013 | 11:57 AM
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icebite1
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I installed the Hayden in wifes '10 TriGlide at around 19,000 miles along with new compensator. Only thing I notice after 800 miles is a off and on whining noise (was told I may hear this till chain wears in) from the primary. Chain tension was correct according to instructions when installed. Guess ill pull the cover and take a look.
 
  #24  
Old 07-10-2013 | 01:25 PM
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SGLarry
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Originally Posted by BadBagger08
I checked mine after a month of riding and mine is also eating it's way into the block, not a lot but it is wearing. I will use mine for the rest of the season and then it's getting replaced.
I think I will be switching to either to the SE manual adjustable tensioner, or the Baker unit.

I do beat on my bike, hard launches. hole shots. the motor is well built. I told the Mech at Ray C's HD I was installing this and he recommended against it, said they tried it years ago and that the chain would slap on hole shots and starting. I can hear the chain when pulling a hole shot, and now my compensator makes noise when it never did before. I recently replaced my drive belt last week and everything looked good in the Comp, this is when I notice the wear in the Hayden.
Don't go with the SE Manual....Go with the Baker. I tried the SE Manual and it was noisier than the OEM or the Hayden no matter how I adjusted it. I did a search on a bunch of different forums and most had the same problem. I put in the Baker and it's dead quiet and shifts smoothly...make sure you adjust at the tightest part of the chain! The OEM and the Hayden are sitting in the garage as paper weights, lol
 
  #25  
Old 07-10-2013 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SGLarry
Don't go with the SE Manual....Go with the Baker. I tried the SE Manual and it was noisier than the OEM or the Hayden no matter how I adjusted it. I did a search on a bunch of different forums and most had the same problem. I put in the Baker and it's dead quiet and shifts smoothly...make sure you adjust at the tightest part of the chain! The OEM and the Hayden are sitting in the garage as paper weights, lol

Thanks 4 the tip Larry, will do.

I was going to change out this winter anyways but when I seen the wear I was disappointed that I won't be able to sell my Hayden used and recoup some of my $$ Maybe I can purchase a new block and still make 40-50.00
 

Last edited by BadBagger08; 07-10-2013 at 01:48 PM.
  #26  
Old 07-10-2013 | 02:20 PM
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Don't you have to pull the comp to install the Baker?
 
  #27  
Old 07-10-2013 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickr01
Don't you have to pull the comp to install the Baker?
No, the comp doesnt get removed.
The Baker is not a self adjusting unit, its like the old style adjusters where you set it and it stays there till it needs adjusting then you reset it. Only drawback is you have to remove the primary cover to do it.

Anyone know how often the Baker needs readjusting?
 
  #28  
Old 07-10-2013 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GPHDXLC
Odd the things that you feel the Hayden was doing is the same things it's supposed to make better. Lucky for you the stock one works better then the Hayden, on mine I don't feel any deference from the stock or the Hayden.
Me neither. Still find neutral just fine and no clunk going into gear if I pull in clutch and blip the throttle once or twice. Same with or without.
 
  #29  
Old 07-10-2013 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by icebite1
No, the comp doesnt get removed.
The Baker is not a self adjusting unit, its like the old style adjusters where you set it and it stays there till it needs adjusting then you reset it. Only drawback is you have to remove the primary cover to do it.

Anyone know how often the Baker needs readjusting?
I wonder why one would need to remove the sprocket and primary chain to install?
If its a manual adjustment seems as though it should install loosely under the chain then the shoe is adjusted upward? What am I missing?

This is from the Baker Installation Instructions.

3) Remove the motor sprocket nut and sprocket assembly with primary chain. Remove the stock auto tensioner assembly and set aside. Before proceeding check the threaded holes for mounting the tensioner, in the inner primary, are free of thread lock, oil and debris.

4) Slide the BAKER Attitude Chain Adjuster into the primary, using blue thread lock, torque the provided 5/16-18 x 2” Hex Head bolts to 220 in-lbs.

5) Install the compensator sprocket assembly with primary chain and bolt per the factory service manual for your model.

6) The Attitude Adjuster functions in the same manner as a 2001-06 stock style ‘L-Bracket’ Chain tensioner. Adjust the chain to 5/8”-7/8” upward free play if the motorcycle is cold, or 3/8”-5/8” upward free play if the bike is hot. Check the free play at multiple points in the chain by turning over the clutch and compensator sprocket to find the tight and loose spots inherent in every primary chain. Tighten the 3/8” Nylock nut to 21-29 ft-lbs when satisfied with the adjustment. Check the primary chain adjustment every 5000 miles.
 
  #30  
Old 07-10-2013 | 05:27 PM
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hardheaded
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Originally Posted by Rickr01
I wonder why one would need to remove the sprocket and primary chain to install?
If its a manual adjustment seems as though it should install loosely under the chain then the shoe is adjusted upward? What am I missing?

This is from the Baker Installation Instructions.

3) Remove the motor sprocket nut and sprocket assembly with primary chain. Remove the stock auto tensioner assembly and set aside. Before proceeding check the threaded holes for mounting the tensioner, in the inner primary, are free of thread lock, oil and debris.

4) Slide the BAKER Attitude Chain Adjuster into the primary, using blue thread lock, torque the provided 5/16-18 x 2” Hex Head bolts to 220 in-lbs.

5) Install the compensator sprocket assembly with primary chain and bolt per the factory service manual for your model.

6) The Attitude Adjuster functions in the same manner as a 2001-06 stock style ‘L-Bracket’ Chain tensioner. Adjust the chain to 5/8”-7/8” upward free play if the motorcycle is cold, or 3/8”-5/8” upward free play if the bike is hot. Check the free play at multiple points in the chain by turning over the clutch and compensator sprocket to find the tight and loose spots inherent in every primary chain. Tighten the 3/8” Nylock nut to 21-29 ft-lbs when satisfied with the adjustment. Check the primary chain adjustment every 5000 miles.
i was wondering the same thing, if you could sneak it in there without removing the comp.
 


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