Ok... so you know that hex drain plug that says DO NOT REMOVE...
#1
Ok... so you know that hex drain plug that says DO NOT REMOVE...
Ok, So I was changing the oil on my bike while my two labs were "helping" and my son was talking to me at the same time.... and well... I removed the wrong plug to drain the oil... I removed the hex plug, the one labeled DO NOT REMOVE in the manual. So... exactly what does that plug do and is it a big deal if I removed it as long as I put it back in? I looked at the pic of the Drain Plugs for Dummies and it looks like it is also a crankcase drain plug... So anyone know if I majorly screwed up, or is all ok now by just putting the plug back in? Thanks!
#2
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
Ha, I'm glad I'm not the only one...we did that on my brothers softail springer when he first got it. He went to the dealer and asked them and they told them they have actually seen people crack the pan from trying to get it out. Didn't come out easy did it. They just told us to put a little teflon tape and some pipe dope and hope it doesn't seep. It's been two years now and not one drop. I guess we got lucky.
And we did have the shop manuel but the pics in it were very confusing.
And we did have the shop manuel but the pics in it were very confusing.
#3
#4
to ensure that you do not crossthread this:
rotate the plug counterclockwise slowly...once you hear/feel a click, you know that the threads are lined up and will engage properly.
not sure of torque value on that one...I'd take it easy on the turning force, if that plug has pipe thread, it is tapered and can split the pan if overtightened =$$$
mike
rotate the plug counterclockwise slowly...once you hear/feel a click, you know that the threads are lined up and will engage properly.
not sure of torque value on that one...I'd take it easy on the turning force, if that plug has pipe thread, it is tapered and can split the pan if overtightened =$$$
mike
#6
I guess I don't know how that could happen since the "correct" plug is a 5/8" socket. The wrong one is a Allen key bolt. I know the correct one also has an Allen wrench alternate removal option but why would you use that if a socket option was available? Allen screws don't give you the torque ability that a hefty socket does...IMO. Now my rkc has the 5/8" socket. If yours didn't I understand the possibility of mistaking the two plugs.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
The manual states do not remove in the change the oil portion but if you look in the back of the manual in the removal of the oil pan section it tell you that you can remove it if necessary and the toque value is (off top of me head) 14-18 ft lbs. Also tells you to use loc tite 565 thread sealant.
I remove this plug when I do oil changes because that is where I install the scavenger. (Im picky) When I re install I don't even torque to that spec cause it seems like to much, I go till snug.
Mike
I remove this plug when I do oil changes because that is where I install the scavenger. (Im picky) When I re install I don't even torque to that spec cause it seems like to much, I go till snug.
Mike
#10
The manual states do not remove in the change the oil portion but if you look in the back of the manual in the removal of the oil pan section it tell you that you can remove it if necessary and the toque value is (off top of me head) 14-18 ft lbs. Also tells you to use loc tite 565 thread sealant.
I remove this plug when I do oil changes because that is where I install the scavenger. (Im picky) When I re install I don't even torque to that spec cause it seems like to much, I go till snug.
Mike
I remove this plug when I do oil changes because that is where I install the scavenger. (Im picky) When I re install I don't even torque to that spec cause it seems like to much, I go till snug.
Mike
Good to know... Looks like it is actually 18-22 ft lbs... Below is the page in the manual for future reference. Thanks!
Last edited by Neopheous; 07-06-2013 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Adding content...