How do you replace the transmission seal? do you have to take the belt and belt sprocket off to get at it?

I never used that much heat at any one time and allowed it to cool between. I am sure it would get hotter than that during normal running. I had electrical tape covering the splines to make sure I did not damage them, at least something covering them to give them some protection. It barely curled/melted the electrical tape, maybe a 1/4" closest to the race. I also put water on it to see how hot it got. it barely sizzled if at all. According to GG instructions you could heat it up but keep it below 200 degF.

I tried to rotate the clutch bearing and I can't seem to get it to spin. Makes me a little nervous about it. Dont know if it is because there is pressure on it due to the spring plate. If I have the clutch assembly out, but not disassembled, should I be able to spin the bearing?

 

You do not have to remove sprocket to replace seal. You can see the seal in your photo of the sprocket, seal goes on the shaft and in the collar the sprocket nut threads onto.

 

You are OK if you kept the heat to that level. Any bearing or harden race should be kept to a maximum of hot oil temperature that the special pots they make for this purpose. 200 degree F. is OK. In my picture, 8,9 and 13 were the three I was referring to above. The 13 is the one most venerable to heat. Once the clutch drum is pulled, it is necessary to carefully a turn or so at a time release the clutch pressure Bellville spring and carefully remove the drive and driven disk noting those little rings, so it all goes back together same way and correct . Then you can inspect bearing since it has no seals. It only spins or is in use when clutch lever is pulled like I said above. I would look at it. Some big chunks (in my opinion ) got into IPB bearing from somewhere, and they have gotten into clutch hub bearing.

 

well I decided to replace the mainshaft seal (outboard side of transmission by inner race). That was a about has hard as pulling off the inner race. Mr seal remover was too big to fit in there. I put a couple of small screws in the seal (at someone's suggestion), tried pulling on it and nothing. I finally wrapped some steel wire around the heads of the screws, wrapped the wire around the inner race puller (without the long bolts and horseshoe shim) and starting using that as the puller. After three tries it finally came out. I used 4 strands of wire around each screw the last time. A single one broke. it started moving with two strands and the wire finally broke as well.

To install the seal, I taped up the threads on the shaft, lubed the ID of the seal, and used the horseshoe shim (that was used to remove the inner race) to tap the seal back in.

Installing the race was alot easy then taking it off. It was hard to see and measure to make sure I got the spacing of the inner race to 0.1-0.125" from the main sprocket. I used the horseshoe shim from the puller to make sure I had enough space to get it in and out, barley. I did use a steel ruler (but measurements didn't go out to the end), and marked it with a steel pic and measure it with calibers. I was in the range and barley able to get the horseshoe shim behind it.

Installed the new rotor for the SE compensator. Put new O-ring on the starter and then reinstalled the inner primary case. and then installed the inner primary case. Made sure all the dowels were back in the right spot and aligned with the holes.

It went on fairly easy. used new sealer bolts to install them and torqued them to the right values and sequence.

Installed the rest of the new compensator, installed the clutch and compensator sprocket and torqued them both the right values. stopping for today. That took most of the day. Can't really go any further until I get the Hayden tensioner anyway.

 

I know this post is old but I have been trying to figure out what a certain sound is on my 2005 RK. It particularly happens when it's being "lugged", and is warmed up, and more-so with a heavier load on it (my wife on the back). Primary bearing? I cannot tell exactly where the sound is coming from.

 

Postin as a mRker for later viewing as I just ordered one today

 

Did you ever figure out how to tell the direction of the inner race ?