Almost makes one want to do a enclosed belt drive and get rid of all the extras

 

The auto tensioner gives the impression it is tighter then it really is since those two short coil springs sitting under the unloader plate actually are talking up 2/3 of the actually available chain play that they provide. That is what makes it so quite. When the outer primary cover is off, it is a whole lot easier to see this since it takes a little pressure with your thumb on the chain to move it, but it will move. But I am with you and just as soon have the manual one. I installed an auto tensioner in mine and thought it was too tight till I pulled cover off and discovered how it really works with those two springs. By then I was so pissed off, I just took it back out.

 

2-Piece

FYI - The inner clutch bearing is a different bearing than the inner primary bearing. The clutch bearing is inside the clutch assembly.

 

check out demple harley super drain plug.com their drain plugs will pick up a 11/16 OE wrench. also there's a locking ring for the compensator from jims usa $160.00

 

OK everyone

I couldn't work on the bike on Thursday evening since my granddaughter's birthday takes priority.

Got working on it it tonight and finished the teardown. Unfortunately I will not be able to get it all put back together this weekend due to one part will not come in until Monday. Boy am I bummed about that.

Today I took off the Compensating sprocket, the clutch assembly, the compensator, the inner race, and the inner primary case.

Several notes:
The service manual does a fairly good job except it never tells you the size of the bolts or nuts. I am starting to mark them in the service manual for future reference. The Compensator sprocket is 13/16", the clutch or mainshaft nut is 1-3/16". The mainshaft nut was a real bummer to find the right size and to actually find a 1-3/16" socket. I had a 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" but no 1-3/16".

Once I had the bolt and nut off the sprocket I pulled the entire assembly off the shafts. Came off real easy.

Everything came off smoothly, well most everything. The inner primary bearing race was a real B$%$#*&%& to get off. There has to be a better engineered way for Harley to come up with. I think it took me two hours to get it off. I ordered the race removal tool from George's Garage and I was really having to crank on it. I used some heat to help, don't know if it did or not. I never let it get too hot. They had used red loctite when they put it on.

I attached some pics of the inner race. Don't know if you can see the small pit in it. Some pics of the inner bearing, which one of the bearings is mared up, pics of the stator and mainshaft after the race was removed.

I talked to the local Harley shop and going to have them pull and press in the new bearing in the inner primary case for me tomorrow. I don't have an arbor press. Unless anyone on this forum has ideas on how to so this without an arbor press?

 

I have a few questions for the forum members

It says to slide bearing race chamfer edge first on mainshaft. I have looked at both the new and old race(s) and for the life of me I can not see a chamfer edge or a difference between the edges. Any help here from the forum members? The old race had lettering facing out or away from transmission. I presume I can install the new race with lettering facing out as well.

I have attached a pic of the starter gear. Is the teeth on it supposed to look like that?

I noticed the starter has an o-ring that seals with the inner primary case. Should I replace that as well?

Also any thoughts of replacing the clutch bearing since I am in here? That bearing is like $90 to replace so would like to hear some thoughts on it. how often does that go out?

 

Least you found something. There are three rubber seals right behind that inner race. Hope you did not get it too hot. Once you remove the big retainer snap ring, the actual bearing is not that tight in the inner cover. That inner race is hard and press fit. Loctite was not holding it, but they could have throw it on for good measure. Probably easier to grind and split. However it's best to have your tool to get it back on. You do not want to hammer it on the end of the transmission or get it on too far.
That bearing on the clutch drum only spins when you pull in the clutch. On mine, like that inner primary bearing, I could rotate it and look at it (it is a big ball bearing) and mine looked and felt good. Your inner looked like it ate a big chip. I think your starter gear looks like it should. I will post a picture of mine when I find it shortly. I think it's machined that way to slide it correctly. I do not have a close shot on the gear or my other side of my clutch drum when I pulled it down further to look at bearing. If you replace that bearing, get the dealer to do it with the IPB since I believe it will be a bear to get that one off and you surely will need a press. I have one of those $200 Harbour freight specials

 

Yes, replace the o-ring on the starter. I wouldn't worry about the clutch hub bearing. You should only replace if you had to press it out, like I did when I did the 49T ring gear conversion.

 

If you used heat to remove the inner primary race, DO NOT install new inner primary race until you install new transmission shaft seal. It is very easy to replace the seal now, I drilled two small holes in seal and screwed in sheet metal screws and easily pulled seal out. You can tap the new seal in slowly with a punch. When installing new inner primary race heat it up on the stove to get it as hot as possible, then crank it on with installation tool. Be sure to lube the transmission shaft, it is a very tight fit. I had to take mine apart a second time because transmission shaft seal leaked trans oil down the inside of the inner primary, not a bad leak, but I cuoldn't stand it leaving a oil spot every time I parked. Good Luck!

 

I agree, when the chain is too tight it is putting abnormal pressure on the bearing, which will cause it to wear prematurely.