When you bandage the problem by cracking the throttle while slowing down, what have you done? Picking the needle up out of the main jet. Am I making sense yet?

 

[QUOTE=jus2anoyu;11427742]If you don't 'mess with it' enjoy your pop. At the very least, you should move the clip on the needle. As I remember, you may move it a notch or two with little difference, but once you start getting close to the sweet spot, you'll start noticing some significant change.[/Q

Would'nt a larger main jet have same intended results as repositioning the needle-whether that be by move the clip or stacking #4 washers (that I'm reading about) with the end result being more gas?

 

You do understand the principles behind jets and needles correct? That 195 jet has the ability to flow more than your old 180. The needle is connected to the slide, which is connected to the throttle cable, which is connected to the round thing on the handlebar. If you don't twist the round thing on the handlebar (or move the needle out of the jet) it don't matter if you have a 300 main jet, you ain't gonna get any more fuel.

 

There is actually a lot more going on here but this is the readers digest of remedial carb tuning. I won't get into vacuum pressure differential and flow

 

The clip is set at 2nd. from bottom,and there's 3 small flat washers/shims.Is the idea to raise the needle?Seems it's already up a ways.

 

If it's too high, that can allow excessive fuel to bleed past causing what will sound like lean exhaust backfire. The exhaust is flooded with raw fuel and can ignite while in the pipes. I would move it the other direction a couple of notches and see what you have at that point. I'm trying to picture that needle in my head, and if it's stock, it's as blunt as a ball point pen. The sporster needle is a long slender taper. I can assure you its not the jetting. You say you don't have any exhaust leaks. At this point, you're gonna have to move the needle clip

 

Too rich crossed my mind also jus2anoyu.....I read somewhere DJ suggests 4th. slot for base,and no mention of washers.I'm actually thinking go the other way-start off w/.190 main and 4 slots down for needle,2 turns out on mixture screw........oh,reattach exhaust.Let her rip and see.

 

Like I said, you've already been everywhere else. I forget that someone else has already been there....

 

If it was me I would put a Mikuni carb on it. They have very good tune instructions on line to.

 

I have been fighting this on my Deuce too. I ran across a tune guide that said to raise idle pretty high and screw in idle jet screw, then lower idle to stall. Adjust out the air screw to the 1.5 turn setting and the idle speed should be about right. I cant get it to idle then, so I suspect that the passages are blocked with crap. Haven't decided where to go from there, as you are supposed to be able to affect idle quality with the air bleed screw, but I have not been able to. I have also been really tempted to go to the Mikuni, or a replacement carb from Wincycle.