2013 Road Glide question on breaking in and oil
#1
2013 Road Glide question on breaking in and oil
Hey guys, proud new owner of a 2013 Road Glide and I absolutely love it Anyways, I was wondering the best way to break the bike in? I heard not to stay at the same speed for to long and not to baby it and don't be overly aggressive. So anyone recommend the proper rpm's I should be riding at when switching and in 6th till its broken in?
And last but not least when I bring the bike in for the 1,000 mile maintenance should I go with synthetic or regular oil? Whats your thoughts. Thanks.
And last but not least when I bring the bike in for the 1,000 mile maintenance should I go with synthetic or regular oil? Whats your thoughts. Thanks.
#2
From S&S:
- Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period
as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning to the oil
tank, and that no leaks exist.
B- Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch
C- After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes.
When the cylinders become warm/hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the
same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.
D- Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly
each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle.
Don’t be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches
full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become
excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 500 mile engine break-in process.
E- The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat
down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine.
We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.
F- The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug
the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.
- Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period
as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning to the oil
tank, and that no leaks exist.
B- Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch
C- After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes.
When the cylinders become warm/hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the
same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.
D- Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly
each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle.
Don’t be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches
full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become
excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 500 mile engine break-in process.
E- The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat
down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine.
We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.
F- The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug
the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.
#4
#5
#7
20,300 msrp for color
19791 for black
1195 for security and abs
everything else is freight and set up fees from the dealer.
NADA shows it as 15,500 -21,000 since its listed as used if you took title.
The Dealers Ive been to lately are selling under MSRP or throwing in warranties and parts / labor discounts so if your close to a new price its not so attractive.
To the OP, there are many ways to break in your engine and more opinions on it then different ways. Either just read your manual and if you choose to follow HD way vary the RPM for the first 500 miles keeping the speed down and then for the next 500 increase speeds, change the oil and have it serviced at 1000 miles , IMO go to synthetic.
Ive never run out over 500 miles to break in an engine. on all of my bikes, cars and trucks the biggest thing for the first 500 miles or so is vary the RPM and after the first 100 miles I have no problem running at any speed that the bike will pull as long as Im not close to redline and varying the RPMs. I put 700 miles on my Road Glide in the first 3 days I owned it most of it freeway. Ive never had an engine in stock form that had problems due to improper break in. Reality is most of the damage is going to happen at assembly and during the initial run in at the factory
Last edited by XARAN; 06-06-2013 at 03:10 PM.