Hello, first off I know there are 1000 "CAM" threads on the forum. I have read through a good bit of them.

I am about 80% sold on putting a set of cams in my 2013 Ultra Limited. I'm not 100% because the bike runs very good now but having all that extra power on tap is very tempting. The bike has D&D fatcat exhaust, Zippers max flow intake and a Power Vision Tuner. I will be buying from Fuel Moto with their install kit and adjustable push rods. I'm haven't made my mind up on the cam but it will probably be the new Woods TW 222 since I am looking for low end torque and power in the 2000-4000 rpm range.

I will be doing the install myself using the Gary Beaty bearing tool. From what I have read that is the only special tool you need for the job right? I have watched all the you tube videos i can find on the install and it seems much easier than I thought. To me the hardest part seems to be adjusting the push rods. I am basically just looking for any tips and suggestions from people who have done this install themselves. I will be doing it in the next week and want to be prepared for any hick ups I may encounter.

Thanks very much!

 

With any proper tools cams are not hard at all, there is a good YouTube video that a guy from S&S made, I did my street glide , Just make sure you use the bearing puller for sure, you can install with old cams and be sure to get the torrington bearings Harley's are crap...

 

I rented a blind hole bearing puller from auto zone, 160.00 deposit but you get it all back. For installing the new bearings I just froze them and then used my old cam to pound them in with a rubber mallet.

 

I would look at the 777 cams, suppose to be big torque

 

Blind hole puller from autozone here also. Tap in the new bearings. Spin rear tire to line up the oil pump. Fairly easy job. I do suggest you not use Fuel Moto's push rods. I had one loosen up on me and they are a realbeotch to remove to reinstall. I replaced with screamin' eagle adjustables. Fuel Moto's rods are 5 pieces, HD is 3 pieces....less places to fail with the HD SE rods.

 

Sit back and watch Jason in this video. It will help you plan your install:


I used the Gary Beaty tool and it worked fine. I much prefer it over the blind pullers out there.

Get yourself a bottle of Permatex assembly lube at Auto Zone or Napa, etc.

Get three new O rings for the oil pump. Using old O rings is risky and not worth having to tear it all down again so do it right the first time and replace the oil pumps O rings. By the way, do NOT remove the oil pump from the cam plate. Absolutely no reason to do that.

When you reinstall your header, remember that replacing the exhaust gaskets is recommended, as is replacing the muffler clamps and the cross under clamp as all are considered single-use clamps. Can you use them again, yes, but you are taking a chance on exhaust leaks. Remember to have on hand one of those gaskets that go inside the cross under pipe. You may not need it, but best to have it on hand in case you mess the one up that is in there now during reinstall.

Get yourself some quality inch pound and foot pound torque wrenches. A $49-$79 torque wrench is not a quality tool. Think Snap-on if you can swing it.

Pushrod adjustment is really easy. As you watch Jason's video, he will show you what the pushrods do on overlap and on the base circle of the cam. I used the S&S Quickie Adjustables. Quality rods and fasteners, plus no need to remove the lifter cover blocks. They come with new pushrod tubes and they make it easy to get at the adjustment/jam nuts. The S&S product is a 32 pitch thread and the SE adjustables are a 24 pitch thread. The S&S product has a finer adjustment than the SE product, and that is important when you working with a few thousandths of lifter travel adjustment.

The 222 is a good grind. But be open minded and look at others as well. The Andrews 57H is a very popular grind for a 103 bolt in cam. You will be told that you need to determine your riding "style" and then find a cam that supports that style of riding. So where in the rpm range do you want your torque curve to start and how long do you want it to last as you increase rpms? Some want the torque to start as low as 1800-2000, and some like it to come in at 2500 or so. All a personal choice.

You will need a sprocket locking tool to hold the crank/rear cam sprocket in place while torquing. There may be other ways to hold them, but I bought the little block made by harley to hold them in place and it worked great. No substitute for the right tools.

You should be able to find a good dynoed map for your 103 and associated hardware that can be used in that power vision. Good luck with your project.

 

++++1!! I got so tired of messing with the fuel moot pushrods that I finally cut them out and put screaming eagle tapers in when i changed cams. My god they are so much easier. That's the only thing I wouldnt get from FuelMoto if I were you.

I wouldn't run the 777 with stock compression like stated above. I run them in my 106 with 10-1 compression and I think that's even a little low. Torque comes on around 3000 but really kicks around 3300. Good luck, it's a pretty fun and easy job..

 

Blind hole puller here too..HD Screaming Eagle pushrods are some of the easiest to adjust apparently... i used them so i don't have any opinion... I would opt to buy the bearing, cam chest gasket, the few o-rings you will need you can get from the dealer... I bought the install kit and i have tons of useless **** leftover...It's good if you are going through the top and re-using your rods but.... Remember to use plenty of assembly lube, freeze your bearings for easier install...Bag and mark every bag...pictures...watch the videos several times before you start...take your time...

 

Great advice from Joe. I agree with MOST of it, but after I did mine I had a pretty knowledgable guy ask me if I'd aligned the oil pump. I said no, I never removed it from the cam plate, why would I? He asked what my crank run out measured and, of course, I hadn't checked. He then asked if I was sure that I had replaced the cam plate and oil pump in the same position on the crank that I'd removed it, or could the crank have been 180 degrees off. If you have excessive crank run out, and if you install it 180 degrees from where you removed it, you COULD have a crank beating up your oil pump. Makes sense to me and, of course, now I'm obsessed to the point where I will be going back in one of these days.

 

Oh... I used S&S Quickees too, very nice pushrods!