I am a new HD owner, I have recently purchased a stock 05 Electra Glide with only 5400 miles on it. I have been told by a friend to get the real HD sound and performance I should think about getting a Stage 1 upgrade.

my question is,
What exactly does a stage 1 do for me?

What will it/ should it cost?

I like to gather information on the things I do before I have/ do them.

Thanks for all the help in advance.

 

Stage 1 usually includes an open or HP type air cleaner and aftermarket exhaust along with possibly a dealer installed update of the ECM to "richen" the fuel mixture to compensate for the freer flowing intake and exhaust. For best results, skip the dealer tune and get a FuelMoto PCIII at the very least for the ECM part of this upgrade. Prices vary on pipes and intakes. The FuelMoto unit is about $250 with a custom "map" pre-installed. Jamie at FuelMoto is a great guy to deal with.

 

Wow that's been sitting! I second everything that QC said. Pipes are personal. If you can go to I bike night to look and listen to the different types. Also, there are a lot of treads on types of exhaust.

 

the general result will be about 7 to 10 gained horsepower... on top fo the 55 or 60 you have- so substantial.
increased exhaust note ( although there are high flow performance mufflers which are not loud)- and as above sound is very very subjective.
go to a bike night and see what other guys are running.
and figure out what you are going to use the bike for...loud can be fun bar-hopping but pretty boring 3 hours into an 8 hour riding day
there may also be increased intake noise...air rushing. no big deal but some guys are confused by this.
almost all the aftermarket hiflow air cleaners will flow more air than you motor can ever demand ( an exception is the "hypecharger")

tuning compensation comes in a few flavors. do your research. it is possible to end up with a poor running bike getting 30 mpg if set up wrong.



Mike

 

PC III for a 02-06 Touring bike, for sale for $50 plus shipping. Perfect shape, no problems, could load it up with a Stage 1 map before I send it to you.

Was run on my 02 FLHPI until I updated to a PC V w/Autotune. No use to me would like to see it on the road again. Just setting on the bench now.

PC III is a good tuner w/lots of good maps available. Anybody out there want a Touring PC III? Any good tuner can do wonders with it.

Whale of a deal, PM or e-mail me @#bachmdl@hot.mail.com.

Dan Bachman
Central Ks.

 

Congrats on the new bike! And that's a good deal on Bachus' PCIII - a good choice for a stage 1 on your scoot. Also, kudos on doing your research first! Read lots and ask questions... you'll be glad you did.

Your basic Stage 1 is intended to let the engine breath a little better and give you a bit more power. You won't be doing wheelies all over town, but you should notice a more responsive power curve when you twist the throttle. Newer touring Harleys have a catalytic converter in the head pipe ('09 and up) which is a big big topic for getting rid of due to heat and the perception that it also restricts exhaust flow. You don't have that to worry about.

A high flow intake and slip-on exhaust (mufflers) will let the engine breathe. The extra air leans out your air/fuel mixture, so a tuner (alternately a dealer download) is needed to reprogram the engine control module and add the necessary fuel back in. Most tuners are a small electronic unit that plugs in to the existing wiring and takes over fuel management functions. Companies like Dynojet have created hundreds (if not thousands) of "maps" that contain the control information based on the engine and type of add-ons you have - among other things. The map is loaded onto your unit when you purchase it so that your are ready to go when you plug it in. If you buy a used unit you will have to contact the manufacturer (Dynojet allows you to access their maps from the internet) and get the right map for your bike and load it yourself. Most manufacturers will help you choose the right one if you call them.

I and many others here have been very pleased with the parts and service from FuelMoto - who also help sponsor this forum. You can call them with any and all of the questions you have asked. I feel sure they will steer you right.

Last thing, it is a forum rule that you come back when its done and tell us how it turned out... with pictures!
I'm pretty sure its a rule, anyway... yea, it is... I think.

 

congrats on the new bike.
There are basically 4 stages, stage 1 is upgrading your air intake, your exhaust and some sort of a tune to set the ecm to help the bike run properly after you make those changes to the air fuel mixture.

Stage 2 would be upgrading cams I believe, and each stage covers more in depth engine modifications until you get to a big bore kit.

I would guess that most Harley owners do a stage 1, the bikes are sent out meeting epa and other regulations and as a result they run hot and cant beath very well as compared to many other options both aftermarket and from Harley.
Depending on the combination you chose for pipes and air and a tune you can pick up 0 to 25 hp and torque for your bike while allowing it to breathe a little easier and run a little cooler and more responsive.
Often if you just go by what you have heard or what you think looks cool it is a crap shoot as to the results.

if you research a lot and look around at peoples dyno tests from stock and then modified you can see the increases they have gained and in what part of the rpm band the gains are obvious.

I just ordered my exhaust and my air kit and tuner.
I wont say specifically what I decided on as I am not trying to advise you to go that route just that after lots of reading and talking to people and thinking about my driving and what I would like to see increase I chose what was best for me.

All told it was 1600$ which is actually on the low side for a full system and tune, a "real" tune or a Harley mastertune or other can run 1k$ just by itself and then of course your parts and labor if you dont do your own work.

You are on the right track asking about it, luckily it is the most covered mod and because there are so many riders with so many opinions and so many companies making parts and claims you have some homework to do.
I found what I think will add 12 to 20 hp and torque in the 2500 rpm to 4500 rpm area, whihc is the area I drive,m so for me it should translate to a better riding bike with more responsiveness.

Just like with anything, there are people who are fan boys, they swear by a name and dont really look much closer at options or results, then there are those who have experimented looking for a balance and in the process have learned alot about different set ups and that can be helpful.

Do some reading, dont just buy what everyone tells you until you know what to expect and why.
If you nly want the sound then a set of slip ons will probably due if you really dont want to spend a lot and just want that classic tone.

you can go as cheap as adding slip on mufflers to your existing headpipe and then adjust the ecm of the bike to run properly and be done, if you add an air kit many times you dont even need a tune.
Or you could go a head pipe and then mufflers, plus a tune and an air cleaner it, etc..
Also different years are a little different so like pre 5 bikes comapred to an 08 will be a little less, my 04 I bought a set of rinehardts and had them installed and the whole thing with a tune was 980$ for my 07 I cant even get pipes for that never mind labor or a tune, I
do my own now anyway but I am just saying, newer bikes cost a little more to do a complete stage 1.
this is all for EFi by the way, carburated bikes are a little different but the same principle.'


Take some time, there is nothing wrong with riding a stock bike for a while, you will enjoy the changes even more if you get used to the way it runs now and then you decide to buy decent parts that really do create gains for your situation.
Everyone has an opinion so just take them with a grain of salt.

A lot of people buy set ups that actually reduce hp and torque until they hit 4500 rpms and above, and sure on a dyno it looks good with very high max numbers but on the road it runs worse than they started with and it is a lot of money to get a poor running bike that sounds cool.
I hope this helps, it seems to m when your just getting started a simple answer and a little clarity can go a long way, we have all been there and some forget that.
pm me if you would like any more info or more specific info or my opinion.
God luck
Lump