Just had the 20K service done on my 2012 Ultra. The tech asks if I've ever noticed the clutch slipping. I never have, but he says on the test ride he notice it. Sure as ****, i'm riding to work and I feel it slipping when I shift into 5th at about 4000 rpm. I thought it was just the adjustment because the was actuating at the very first pull of the lever. I stopped at the dealer on the way home and they re-adjusted, but it still slipped. So, long story short, it's back in for a clutch replacement. They're putting in a new clutch. Turns out the Screamin' Eagle clutch is cheaper than the stock Ultra clutch... 9 plates instead of 8, stronger spring, and more surface area. $450 parts and labor. Wish I had time to do it myself, but I get a vehicle allowance thru work, so I don't mind so much.

Anyone else go thru a clutch that quick? I commute to work (about 100 miles/day) and try to get a ride in with my wife on the weekends. Obviously, in L.A. I'm in traffic (except for the weekend rides), so I'm on and off the clutch a lot.

Anyway, happy trails!

 

Not covered on warranty? Only time I needed to replace a clutch was on a Sporty, after I had the motor built up to 85 hp. Went with a Kevlar clutch.

 

Clutch is a wear item just like a tire. No warranty.

 

I would think that even with a lot of city driving a clutch should last longer than that. How many total miles does it have on it?

 

Ya know, I've been hearing more and more lately about clutch adjustment issues. What's the deal? It's not rocket science.

I wouldn't doubt if the OPs issue is simply with the adjustment. He says the clutch is actuating at they very first pull of the lever. If that is the case, that's an improper adjustment. There needs to be some freeplay in the lever.

I recently rode a friends bike who had just had the clutch adjusted by a dealer and it was the same way. It was a female friend who had parked her bike on a slope, backed in towards a drainage ditch, and she was afraid she couldn't get it out so I moved it for her. I started the bike. As I started to let the clutch out and release the brake I thought I must be in nuetral or something because I had to let the clutch lever out so far before it started to engage. There was absolutely zero freeplay. I told her she better take the bike back in for a readjustment or bring it by my place and I'd do it.

Why does such an adjustment, with little to no freeplay in the lever, seem so common? You've got to have some freeplay folks. Otherwise what you are doing is essentially riding down the road with the clutch partially disengaged, just as if you were slightly pulling in the clutch as you are riding.

To the OP... Before spending the bucks for a new clutch, if I were you, I'd simply loosen the cable adjustment to provide a bit of freeplay in the lever and then try it. See if that eliminates the slip. I'm assuming they adjusted the clutch inside the cover correctly so try loosening the cable and see what that does. It's a five minute job that might save you some bucks.

To be absolutely sure, you should check the adjustment inside the cover too, but the cable is so easy I'd start there with the presumption that they adjusted inside the cover correctly.

Without having your bike in front of me I can't say with certainty that this is the problem, but it's sure worth a try. These clutches should last practically forever on a stock bike.

 

Clutch is considered a wear item... like brakes.

 

I think because the leverage of the ez pull clutch mechanism, adjustment is more crucial than on previous versions of the clutch- both at the basket and at the lever

and how the clutch works depends on other variables, temperature for one--- and the lube too.

alot of riders try "magic lubes" which may have more or less stiction when cold.

and alot of owners are not the best wrenches- the clutch adjustment requires a certain feel gained through experience.
I'll admit than when i got my 09, my first shot at clutch adjustment had me stopping roadside and redoing it...what was great on a room temp clutch was slipping when at full operating temperature...as I recall I went less than the 3/4 turn out than I used to.
I carry enough tools on the bike to get me out of minor troubles


so far, so good on my 09, but if it does go I'll likely be throwing some disks from barnett in there and probably get a tougher spring too.

One advantage of the clutch on the 88 is that you can preload the spring for more or less clamping force.

Mike

 

Hey 2Black1s... I live very near to you. In fact, you live where this dealer is. I've never complained about them. They've always been pretty good to me. I agreee with you that the clutch lever was adjusted incorrectly. It was a lot like your friend's clutch, but (barely) within specifications. Readjustment yeilded the same results.

 

There does seem to be a lot of issues lately. I just opened up my primary to pull my gearset and my clutches look great. originals 2008. I beat the hell out of my bike, slipping the clutch loading the motor when I 1st got it to make it sound kooler and meaner than it really was...lol thought for sure that would have burnt the clutches.
These guy's are making way less power/torque than I am now and my clutch plates still look new. I think there is a bunch of incompetent workers in the HD maint areas doing the adjusting. It's a wear item and it cost 450.00 repair....(cough) bullshit

 

This kinda defies logic. Freeplay increases with temperature so any slippage when hot that isn't there cold shouldn't be adjustment related.