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Clutch Crutch

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  #11  
Old 04-18-2013 | 10:20 PM
scottmotorsports's Avatar
scottmotorsports
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From: St Charles, IL
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Get the Syn 3 out
 
  #12  
Old 04-18-2013 | 10:53 PM
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2AMGuy
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On my 2000 Ultra, I put nearly 40,000 miles on the original clutch and even pulled a trailer to Alaska and did a lot of touring through mountain states.

When I had a new Baker DD6 trans installed the guy couldn't believe that it was the original clutch sbut I had him install a new clutch anyways.

With the the Baker DD6, I went through the new clutch in less that 13,000 miles? The next clutch lasted even less (around 11,000 miles).
I'm not hot-rodded, and I don't abuse my bikes so I knew something had to be wrong.
I took the bike to my H-D dealer and after a week or so they told me that they thought it may be the clutch hub so I had them order and install it.
THey called and said it was ready so I had my wife drive me out there before she went to work. The clutch seemed much better and it actually felt like a new bike.
I left the dealer and I was going to have lunch with a friend about 20 miles (about half way home) so when I turned onto a rural state route I opened the bike up a bit and sure as s8&t I felt the new clutch starting to slip.

At lunch I called the service manager and he couldn't believe it either.
He told me to bring the bike back and he gave me a loaner to ride home.

After consulting with Baker Powertrain, Baker sent a new gear set to them and they installed it and that totally fixed the problem.
I'm not exactly sure what the problem was but obviously it was in the tranny.

Baker Powetrain stood by their product even though it was almost old enough to be out of warranty.
 
  #13  
Old 04-19-2013 | 09:35 AM
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Roger That
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From: South Florida
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Originally Posted by GaugeMods
There does seem to be a lot of issues lately. I just opened up my primary to pull my gearset and my clutches look great. originals 2008. I beat the hell out of my bike, slipping the clutch loading the motor when I 1st got it to make it sound kooler and meaner than it really was...lol thought for sure that would have burnt the clutches.
These guy's are making way less power/torque than I am now and my clutch plates still look new. I think there is a bunch of incompetent workers in the HD maint areas doing the adjusting. It's a wear item and it cost 450.00 repair....(cough) bullshit
I had this same problem a month or so ago......after I let a HD tech replace my stock levers with chrome ones.

They will tell you it is within spec. That's because most of them don't know what they're doing! I brought the bike in to the dealer and told them of the issue, they had a mechanic take it for a ride. They tell me nothing's wrong. I tell them to try again. Another mechanic takes it out and comes back in 5 minutes and says the clutch is fried!!

Then they will tell you it is a wear item not under warranty!

I believe that it is and was two things that contributed to the problem. The first being HD service technicians that only know "spec" and not real world experience!! Do the work yourself!!

The second contibuting factor, as I was told, was the fact that I had synthetic fluid in the primary and not Formula 1. The synthetic is thinner and slicker.

I get my bike back after having the SE clutch and spring put on and guess what..........these morons had the clutch improperly adjusted EXACTLY like they did when the issues started. Again......bafoons!!!!

My advice.........Do it yourself!! Good Luck!
 
  #14  
Old 04-19-2013 | 09:56 AM
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ddm502001
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From: Mid West
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These are wet clutches, they are designed for the fluids they reside and are operated in and should theoretically last a reasonably long time if kept in adjustment. Let a clutch go for extended time misadjusted and it will cook the fiber plates either to a slick finish to slip or burned away so they won't work properly.
 
  #15  
Old 04-19-2013 | 09:58 AM
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Def Mute
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From: Fla
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I have to agree with 2black1s...

Most of the recent threads about clutch replacement most likely only needed to be properly adjusted. Even though 2black1s and I have different ideas on the proper way to adjust the clutch, we both seem to agree that they just simply don't 'burn up' as easily as most people seem to believe...
 
  #16  
Old 04-19-2013 | 10:05 AM
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Grimace97
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From: Streamwood, IL
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my 97 king had the clutch blow at 35k. it was the copper rivets in the plates. bad design.

not sure if this is the only clutch, as I got the boke at 31k.

put a barnett in for 120 for plates, 40 for the compression tool.
 
  #17  
Old 04-19-2013 | 10:18 AM
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Def Mute
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From: Fla
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Originally Posted by Grimace97
my 97 king had the clutch blow at 35k. it was the copper rivets in the plates. bad design.

not sure if this is the only clutch, as I got the boke at 31k.

put a barnett in for 120 for plates, 40 for the compression tool.
That was the old EVO clutch. The TCs are different, and no longer utilize the riveted spring seperator plate. Besides, we are talking about clutch plates wearing, not rivets being sheared off...
 
  #18  
Old 04-19-2013 | 10:24 AM
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69z28
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From: east cen.miss
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While on a recent trip to South Lousiana,bike loaded with luggage and wife,I thought I felt the clutch slip in 4th under a load.I didn't notice it again and forgot about it till now.Going to Thunder Beach in a couple of weeks so I guess I better check it. Bike is a 10 Ultra 24k bone stock except for some chrome,and should not need a clutch but I'm begining to see a patern here.
 
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