I don't think you need to crack the case for a 120r because its a complete engine.

My TW-555 cams kept me happy for a least a year and then I was ready for more.
Have you already installed an oil cooler, SE compensator or maybe a SE heavy spring?
With just the cams I got maybe 2000 miles out of the stock clutch, just for FYI.

 

No kidding, can't believe I let myself write that...good catch.

Nope. Haven't done anything to the engine besides the stage 1. When I do the Cams, everything you mentioned (and then some) is getting done as well.

 

you go with the 107 kit you won't even need to down shift from 6th when running 70mph. seriously, i agree with some of the other guys here. try a cam change, you will definitely notice a difference. with my '12 SG i've got the SE255 cams. when i'm running 70 and want to pass a car, just a twist of throttle and i'm doing 90 by the time i'm around that car and thats riding two up. at least it will give you a little more power and the time to decide what you really want.
good luck with your decision. i'm thinking of doing the Stage IV to my 103. I like the power I have now, but just "want" more but probably don't "need" it. LOL

 

I really think this is misinformation. If you dont do the crank the bottom end will be the weakest link, with the top end being the strongest. Any reputable builder that is going to build a motor thats going to be putting in the neighborhood of 120/110+ better weld the crank. Im not sure what year crank you have but I learned a lesson on my 07 103.
Long story short I developed an oil psi issue 4 years ago on a trip, I blamed it on extreme temps and lower fairings, changed the oil and removed the lowers. Everything seemed ok until last year when I had an oil psi drop on the highway, in 50* temps. Had a shop pull it down to inspect the oil pump and it was wasted and he said my crank was at .005. He put in a SE pump and plate, 3000 miles later the bars vibrate so bad you cant see out of the mirror and my fairing vibrates.
Its in the shop now getting a new 103 with a welded/balanced crank, Timkin bearings, MVA heads, 585 cam.
Sorry this was long but the moral of the story is if you take short cuts by building a serious motor to be safe one needs to start from the ground up. Cam and pipes is one thing but when going with big power you are adding stress and heat to the engine, weigh in with how its driven and maintained some may get lucky. Mine lasted 35k miles. Cooling fans are also a necessity.

 

I did a SE stg2 103 kit last spring w 255 cams and SEPST w/auto tune. big runs good pulls hard. the only thing I would change is to go with the SE254E cams for a little more top end !

 

well, you've got several options here. but i can tell you that my 107, with the woods 555 cams, and no headwork will easily pass someone in 6th gear without having to downshift to 5th at 70 mph.

good luck with whatever you decide. you will love it.

 

You're going to get as many opinions as answers, with your original question! You could just replace the cams and get a decent improvement in performance, but you can get more performance by increasing compression ratio, which will enable you to use higher performance cams to match the CR. When changing CR you may as well increase cylinder bore as well! If you have your heads ported you can go to yet higher performance cams, and so the spiral continues to climb!

It's all a matter of deciding when to step off and only you can decide that. I have the impression that none of the tuning shops you have spoken to give you all the answers you would like to hear, in other words you don't feel that you can give your business to one of them.

I think you have to continue your quest. There are HDF sponsors who can provide excellent solutions and probably give you more performance than you expect to get! Look through the HDF sponsors and vendors and contact a couple. There is a solution out there and a tuning shop that will tick all the boxes for you!

 

If you did decide to go the 120R route, you could sell your old engine to recoup some of the cost of the 120R engine.

Plus the labor to do an complete engine swap isn't any more than doing a big bore kit with the bottom end still in place.

Just a thought.

 

I say one thing, lol. If you want reliability leave it stock with a stage1

 

Try and keep your engine sealed.....I would suggest cams, pipes, A/C and tuner.
If you still need more then, BB with pistons, heads and crank.
The longer that engine stays sealed the better.