I don't have my computer with me. Good explanation on it. the 9&44 are much the same. The 205 is early cvo. Will look up and post tomorrow. Some are for TBW and others are mechanical linkage.

 

Back on laptop now, will see if I can clarify this. What happened with the bogus numbers was on one of the first Autotune PCV's I worked on. It was on a 2010 Trike with True Duals and competition 2 1/2" baffles with T-Man 555 cams which have a 244 degrees on the intake and 246 on exhaust and 44 degrees of split overlap. Pretty aggressive cam for a heavy bike. The map we received for it ran fair but had popping on off idle response and you had to just accelerate thought it. It would also then pop at around 2750 in gear when accelerating to shift. We had to richen the low end up about 8% and the area around 2500 to 3000 richened about 15% to get it working right. It would work pretty good for a couple of days then start popping again. We also cleared the trims and didn't accept them. The trims would have some -20's in a few of the problem areas. I went in and disabled the auto tune in the 0 to 40 throttle posititon with 0 in the fuel tables. No more problem after that. Got the bike tuned in and then decided to turn the Autotune back on in the 10 to 40 range and left the target tables in the 12.8 range in this area. Also changed the limit on autotune from 20 to 10 on the -side. Didn't have any further problem. the reason it was changing so much was the cams required a rich mixture and the exhaust required a richer mixture as to their not being efficient down low. With these cams on the low end you have to lean the mixture around 20 in the idle area and then taper it off as reaching higher rpms up to about 2500. The cams cause misfiring/ loping at low rpms which was fooling the Autotune into sensing a rich mixture and leaning it out. Still didn't accept the trims down low and had a decent running bike. Changed the 32 front pulley to a 30 and now it is running great. Also put a Power Vision on it and adjusted the speedo and lots of other areas and it is running even better. Also have the Autotune broadband O2's and haven't had a chance to run the Pro tune as the owner likes it the way it is. Another story. Hope this answers your question. I have had a problem with Autotune basic on my stock bike leaning out the low area and making the lowend/off idle not respond as good as it should. It is shooting for a 14.6 mixture and that is too lean for the lowend. No popping just lazy feeling. It worked fine in the cruise and topend areas.

 

The 44 and 9 are interchangeable far as I know. Was asked what the different strategies were. Here is a quick explanation that help me under stand which to use. I try to use what ever came on bike originally. You can't even use the compare function when looking at DBW and Non DBW. It won't pull up both VE tables.
44 is for 2011-2013 heated O2's and DBW all engines 96 to 110
9 is for 2010-2013 heated O2's and DBW all engines
205 is for 2008 to 2009 non heated O2's and DBW
176 is for 2006 to 2011 non drive by wire.
141 2006 open loop
127 is for 2005-2006 open loop
105 is for 2001-2004
171 is for 2007 up sportsters.
The V-rod uses a lot of the same strategies
There are other strategies, but these are the main ones I have had dealings with.
Hope this clears it up some. The DBW strategies all use the %load kpa and the others use throttle position tables in the VE tables. All the spark tables seem to use the % load kpa tables and are pretty standard as to ranges.

 

ke5rbd, Thanks for taking the time to reply.