88 to 95 Transformation
#1
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I am about to tear into the big bore conversion with my bike, I was hoping for some feed back on past experiences of do's and dont's.
I have my service manual and I have been reading as much as I can.
Pointers, tips and look-out fores much appreciated! I have used search but I am not hitting on the right key words? So if anyone could pass along a previous thread that would be great too! THANKS
Let'er rip
I have my service manual and I have been reading as much as I can.
Pointers, tips and look-out fores much appreciated! I have used search but I am not hitting on the right key words? So if anyone could pass along a previous thread that would be great too! THANKS
Let'er rip
#2
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If you can work on you lawn mower and read your manual, you're set!
You will find that it's surprisingly simple.
One tip I might offer is to get yourself an allen wrench that fits the throttlebody flange bolts and cut it off about 1/2" long and you can use that and turn it with a wrench to loosen the inside flange bolts. I think it's 5/16, but it may be 1/4... just verify the size and cut one off.
You may also wanna go back with a Cometic .030 head gasket to achieve proper quench.
Keep your work area clean and bag & label your parts.
Be sure you have a piston ring compressor and when you are ready to begin re-assy, put the pistons in the jugs on the bench and then have someone hold the cylinder/piston pair while you stab and clip the wrist pin.
You will find that it's surprisingly simple.
One tip I might offer is to get yourself an allen wrench that fits the throttlebody flange bolts and cut it off about 1/2" long and you can use that and turn it with a wrench to loosen the inside flange bolts. I think it's 5/16, but it may be 1/4... just verify the size and cut one off.
You may also wanna go back with a Cometic .030 head gasket to achieve proper quench.
Keep your work area clean and bag & label your parts.
Be sure you have a piston ring compressor and when you are ready to begin re-assy, put the pistons in the jugs on the bench and then have someone hold the cylinder/piston pair while you stab and clip the wrist pin.
#3
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I am assuming engine out of frame etc.........
I did one on my 01 electraglide.
Bought it wrecked in 2/2002. I have been really procrastinating here.
did the big bore was quite easy, but then I've been an auto rebuilder for about
30 years (and big trucks and heavy equipment).
I would do what the other guy says about bag and label.
Take pictures (digital camera ) of the tear down process and how things look.
It helps when going back together a month or so later, because you got side tracked.
Pistons you can do same time with jugs like he said or separately whichever is easier
for you.
Piston rings, I have found on autos this works best.
put oil control spacer (wavy ring with all the holes) in first, keep ends butted but NOT overlapped. Just past the edge of the piston pin hole.
then the two side ring ends just past the butted ends of that (one forward past the butt
and one just behind the butt)
Then stagger approximately 180 degrees from each othe the ends of the remaining rings.
Put one just before the piston pin and the next turn 180 degrees and place it on other side
of piston just off from the pin hole.
ring openings directly above pin hole I've found on v-8 and v-6's especially to start blowing
oil past rings.
And if you put ring openings around piston 1/2 way between the pin holes, could score cylinder wall as they move up and down. Course we got tighter tolerances nowadays so not as much of a problem. But I've not had any problem yet doing it this way.
The piston pin circlip can be a little stubborn, make absolutely sure they seat in the groove.
When doing the o-rings I prefer pure liguid vegetable oil.
Some auto oils will cause the rings to swell and soften and you don't want that during assembly.
Some big bore kits eliminate the head gasket o-rings, read your instructions carefully.
Also the head gaskets can go only one way and be right. same for rocker box gasket.
So pay close attention.
On the intake manifold most of mounting flanges are marked front and rear, watch them.
don't force anything, everything should slip together quite smoothly. even though some may be snug.
Now all I got to do is finish rewiring this bike (after 5 years in front room) and it should be ready to go!
Good luck on the project.
damn I'm out of jack and coke guess I 'll have to sweet talk the ole lady into more!!
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/71EE6E6C70384BD7B307BC0F3C446E89.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/D57B102A106E4ACDBC28CB89A98CEE96.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/6AA12FBE64984A1C9D45E519C3170467.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/7DC45DB6A3544F32BDAA04E57D9DFC2E.jpg[/IMG]
I did one on my 01 electraglide.
Bought it wrecked in 2/2002. I have been really procrastinating here.
did the big bore was quite easy, but then I've been an auto rebuilder for about
30 years (and big trucks and heavy equipment).
I would do what the other guy says about bag and label.
Take pictures (digital camera ) of the tear down process and how things look.
It helps when going back together a month or so later, because you got side tracked.
Pistons you can do same time with jugs like he said or separately whichever is easier
for you.
Piston rings, I have found on autos this works best.
put oil control spacer (wavy ring with all the holes) in first, keep ends butted but NOT overlapped. Just past the edge of the piston pin hole.
then the two side ring ends just past the butted ends of that (one forward past the butt
and one just behind the butt)
Then stagger approximately 180 degrees from each othe the ends of the remaining rings.
Put one just before the piston pin and the next turn 180 degrees and place it on other side
of piston just off from the pin hole.
ring openings directly above pin hole I've found on v-8 and v-6's especially to start blowing
oil past rings.
And if you put ring openings around piston 1/2 way between the pin holes, could score cylinder wall as they move up and down. Course we got tighter tolerances nowadays so not as much of a problem. But I've not had any problem yet doing it this way.
The piston pin circlip can be a little stubborn, make absolutely sure they seat in the groove.
When doing the o-rings I prefer pure liguid vegetable oil.
Some auto oils will cause the rings to swell and soften and you don't want that during assembly.
Some big bore kits eliminate the head gasket o-rings, read your instructions carefully.
Also the head gaskets can go only one way and be right. same for rocker box gasket.
So pay close attention.
On the intake manifold most of mounting flanges are marked front and rear, watch them.
don't force anything, everything should slip together quite smoothly. even though some may be snug.
Now all I got to do is finish rewiring this bike (after 5 years in front room) and it should be ready to go!
Good luck on the project.
damn I'm out of jack and coke guess I 'll have to sweet talk the ole lady into more!!
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/71EE6E6C70384BD7B307BC0F3C446E89.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/D57B102A106E4ACDBC28CB89A98CEE96.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/6AA12FBE64984A1C9D45E519C3170467.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23714/7DC45DB6A3544F32BDAA04E57D9DFC2E.jpg[/IMG]
#4
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Big thanks to all I have the build done! went fairly easy, I have a few questions.......................
With the Hi Performance SE multi layered gaskets do you need o rings?
And I used SE quick install rods- when they say 2-2 1/2 turnsafter 0 lashdo they mean complete revolutions? They seem awfully tight?? I don't want to run it and bend a valve!
With the Hi Performance SE multi layered gaskets do you need o rings?
And I used SE quick install rods- when they say 2-2 1/2 turnsafter 0 lashdo they mean complete revolutions? They seem awfully tight?? I don't want to run it and bend a valve!
#5
#6
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#7
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Which gaskets are you referring too?
My directions stated whether to use o-rings or not:
Rev. 6-11-99 S/E Twin cam 88 Big bore cylinder conversion kit
(last warning note)
HEAD GASKETS PROVIDED IN THE 1550 CONVERSION KIT ELIMINATE THE NEED
FOR THE ORIGINAL O-RINGS (PART NO. 11273). FOR THIS REASON, DO NOT REINSTALL THE O.E. (ORIGINAL) HEADGASKET O-RINGS ON TOP OF CYLINDER DOWELS OR SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.
When they say two turns or one or three it is always one complete revolution.
Never hurts to check though.
IASSUME YOU ARE TALKING THE VALVE LASH (don't have book handy)
But before making adjustment be absolutely sure each cam lobe for the push rod is on the base circle of cam NOT on THE LOBE.
Or it will definitely be too tight.
My directions stated whether to use o-rings or not:
Rev. 6-11-99 S/E Twin cam 88 Big bore cylinder conversion kit
(last warning note)
HEAD GASKETS PROVIDED IN THE 1550 CONVERSION KIT ELIMINATE THE NEED
FOR THE ORIGINAL O-RINGS (PART NO. 11273). FOR THIS REASON, DO NOT REINSTALL THE O.E. (ORIGINAL) HEADGASKET O-RINGS ON TOP OF CYLINDER DOWELS OR SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.
When they say two turns or one or three it is always one complete revolution.
Never hurts to check though.
IASSUME YOU ARE TALKING THE VALVE LASH (don't have book handy)
But before making adjustment be absolutely sure each cam lobe for the push rod is on the base circle of cam NOT on THE LOBE.
Or it will definitely be too tight.
ORIGINAL: tgaetto
Big thanks to all I have the build done! went fairly easy, I have a few questions.......................
With the Hi Performance SE multi layered gaskets do you need o rings?
And I used SE quick install rods- when they say 2-2 1/2 turnsafter 0 lashdo they mean complete revolutions? They seem awfully tight?? I don't want to run it and bend a valve!
Big thanks to all I have the build done! went fairly easy, I have a few questions.......................
With the Hi Performance SE multi layered gaskets do you need o rings?
And I used SE quick install rods- when they say 2-2 1/2 turnsafter 0 lashdo they mean complete revolutions? They seem awfully tight?? I don't want to run it and bend a valve!
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#8
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The gasket kit (HD) came with no destructions? There was no mention of the orings and the packaging had the gaskets in groups. The head gaskets came with exhaust gaskets only. and the jug orings had the bottom dowel rings in that group.
I bought the SE multi layered head gaskets and there was no mention of the rings it said refer to manual.....
I have good compression and the cylinders are both real close.
I also have what I believe to be a tunning issue, if I am hammer down runs and sounds great, but if I am under normal throttle right at 2200-3000 it breaks up and sputters through and then cleans up? Any suggestions on this? I have the SERT can I advance or retard the timing, adjust fuel, throttle????
I bought the SE multi layered head gaskets and there was no mention of the rings it said refer to manual.....
I have good compression and the cylinders are both real close.
I also have what I believe to be a tunning issue, if I am hammer down runs and sounds great, but if I am under normal throttle right at 2200-3000 it breaks up and sputters through and then cleans up? Any suggestions on this? I have the SERT can I advance or retard the timing, adjust fuel, throttle????
#10
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Just returned from a 1500 ml breaking. We got real lucky and had some real nice weather broke out of Chicago and headed south through Missouri and Arkansas.
Any suggestions on what to check? I figure I will do the 1k and the 5k since the bike turned 5500. Not a bad start on the season! Bike ran real strong and a little fat which is a good thing for those break in miles..... I am probably going to change the exhaust, the TREX are way to loud at 200+ miles! I want to leave he ride in her!!!
ITS DYNO TIME!
Any suggestions on what to check? I figure I will do the 1k and the 5k since the bike turned 5500. Not a bad start on the season! Bike ran real strong and a little fat which is a good thing for those break in miles..... I am probably going to change the exhaust, the TREX are way to loud at 200+ miles! I want to leave he ride in her!!!
ITS DYNO TIME!