Can throttle cable return spring tension be increased
#1
Can throttle cable return spring tension be increased
Does anyone know if the return spring tension for the throttle cables be increased at the throttle body housing? Im thinking if I could get another wind from the spring my cables wont drag. Tried lubing them, but on a R/K the bend in the cables seem kind of tight going thru the nacelle, but they just wont spring back like theyre supposed to.
Last edited by bagman1; 02-28-2013 at 10:41 AM.
#3
Its injected. I was looking at the coil spring on the throttle housing to see if that could be wound tighter. I pushed on the end of the spring that sticks out of the housing and the throttle would return, so I am thinking if I can get a turn or two on that I might be good. Thanks for the reply.
#4
1) if your throttle grip is pushed up into the handlebar too far it will cause resistance.
2) lubeing between your grip and the handlebar is also a good idea. Prevents friction between the interior of the grip and the bar itself.
3) properly adjusting the cables. Set the slack on the pull side first taking just about all the slack out then do the return cable allowing a little more slack on it. It could be that your 2 cables are fighting each other so to speak. Twist the throttle grip while you make the return adjustment and let it pop back to the idle position. You know you have gone too far adjusting the return cable when the grip will not pop back.
my 2 cents
2) lubeing between your grip and the handlebar is also a good idea. Prevents friction between the interior of the grip and the bar itself.
3) properly adjusting the cables. Set the slack on the pull side first taking just about all the slack out then do the return cable allowing a little more slack on it. It could be that your 2 cables are fighting each other so to speak. Twist the throttle grip while you make the return adjustment and let it pop back to the idle position. You know you have gone too far adjusting the return cable when the grip will not pop back.
my 2 cents
#5
It's not the spring. New modern cables do not need lube. The steel wire rope in the nylon sheath is best left alone since lube only gums them up when road crud gets to it. You need to fine the bind, sometimes its just in the clam shell or the twist grip. Then adjust the two cables to your survice manual. If someone messed with the push and pull cables it's probably that if they did not understand how to do it and have the cables fighting each other at idle. When correctly adjusted the springs are plenty strong on a FI and they do not wear out or get weak. If you find it still tight and you have to unhook cable and find they are tight, I would wash them out with kerosene and if still tight replace them.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 02-28-2013 at 01:15 PM.
#6
I just installed Avon grips from custom chrome, and I think the ferrule hole is a tad bit tighter than oem or PM's. I will take them down again start over, maybe even take some emery clothand hone out the ferrule slots. Didnt have much of an issue before the grip change, the bike had sat for 2 years and they were hanging up. A nice long ride took care of that though. Thanks for the responses
#7
Beware also excessive tension in the cables. If they are pulled up tight, everything binds and drags. There needs to be slack.
While new cables should be wonderfullness personified with regards to free slide, after some years, they tend to wear and do need lubrication. Clutch cables especially. Just lubed up mine, cut the lever force roughly in half.
While new cables should be wonderfullness personified with regards to free slide, after some years, they tend to wear and do need lubrication. Clutch cables especially. Just lubed up mine, cut the lever force roughly in half.
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