Wimmer Compression Releases
#41
I wouldn't want to change to a non-HD Spark Plug. Also, I wouldn't recommend drilling the head in place. Too much of a chance of getting metal filings into the engine.
$150.00 for the Wimmer seems high and would probably more than cover the cost of doing the install the right way. $25.00 for a manual CR and I don't believe it would take much more than an hour of labour to remove, drill, tap and reinstall the rear cylinder head.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TP-Engineeri...item20cf02d15d
$150.00 for the Wimmer seems high and would probably more than cover the cost of doing the install the right way. $25.00 for a manual CR and I don't believe it would take much more than an hour of labour to remove, drill, tap and reinstall the rear cylinder head.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TP-Engineeri...item20cf02d15d
I was quoted locally $150 for manual releases installed, not including removing and re-installing the heads (which I would do). In the end, I decided I just don't want to take the heads off until I'm ready for a 107" and new cams. That, plus curiosity about the product got the best of me as I think it is a great idea and a simple solution for the hot start issue many have.
#43
#44
I contacted NGK Plugs and asked them their opinion on these CR's, here's their response;
Hello,
The only thing that would concern me with this is that the thread is not fully enguaged as the thread reach would be defeated.
Best Regards,
Jason Norwood
NGK Spark Plugs ( USA) Inc.
Technical and Training Specialist – Aftermarket Division
46929 Magellan Drive
Wixom, MI 48393
Office: (248)-926-7107
Fax: (248)-926-6938
Email: jnorwood@ngksparkplugs.com
ASE Certified
Ngksparkplugs.com
Hello,
The only thing that would concern me with this is that the thread is not fully enguaged as the thread reach would be defeated.
Best Regards,
Jason Norwood
NGK Spark Plugs ( USA) Inc.
Technical and Training Specialist – Aftermarket Division
46929 Magellan Drive
Wixom, MI 48393
Office: (248)-926-7107
Fax: (248)-926-6938
Email: jnorwood@ngksparkplugs.com
ASE Certified
Ngksparkplugs.com
#45
#46
Is it possible that you could measure the distance from the bottom of the banjo adaptor to the bottom of the plug. I want to see exactly what the difference is between the front plug(no CR) and the plug with the CR on it.
#49
Update
The email quoted below is my experience with the Wimmer compression relief; I’m still waiting to hear back from them.
Hi Lee,
This past weekend I got my bike out of storage and attempted to install the Compression Release I recently purchased and ran into some problems. Due to the angle of the tube that exits the base it looks like I would need to not only grind the lip off the plug bore edge (which I did) but also grind a large portion of the cooling fins and the top of the head bolt….is this normal? I was under the impression this was a pretty straightforward install that may require a LITTLE grinding to work, having to grind in 3 places was not what I thought needed to be done.
I have attached pictures that show what I am talking about. Notice that the MCR is still not sitting flush even after taking a considerable amount of material from the plug and rounding the corners of the release. In fact, if I do take enough material to make it sit flush then it will hit the head bolt and I could possibly need to grind a relief area in 2 cooling fins.
Is the angle on the MCR I have correct? Do you make one with a steeper angle?
Please advise.
Thanks
-Mike
Cooling Fin Contact:
Head bolt Contact:
Material Removed:
Still Not Sitting Flush:
Hi Lee,
This past weekend I got my bike out of storage and attempted to install the Compression Release I recently purchased and ran into some problems. Due to the angle of the tube that exits the base it looks like I would need to not only grind the lip off the plug bore edge (which I did) but also grind a large portion of the cooling fins and the top of the head bolt….is this normal? I was under the impression this was a pretty straightforward install that may require a LITTLE grinding to work, having to grind in 3 places was not what I thought needed to be done.
I have attached pictures that show what I am talking about. Notice that the MCR is still not sitting flush even after taking a considerable amount of material from the plug and rounding the corners of the release. In fact, if I do take enough material to make it sit flush then it will hit the head bolt and I could possibly need to grind a relief area in 2 cooling fins.
Is the angle on the MCR I have correct? Do you make one with a steeper angle?
Please advise.
Thanks
-Mike
Cooling Fin Contact:
Head bolt Contact:
Material Removed:
Still Not Sitting Flush: