Gerbing Heated Gloves Information
#1
Gerbing Heated Gloves Information
I got this from another web site. The discussion is the difference between the T-5 vs G-3. Here is the write up for those consider one or the other;
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Re: New heated Gerbing T5 gloves
Lots of questions here, and maybe I can help. The general differences between the G3's and the T5's is insulation and construction. The G3's are thinner, with 70 grams of Thinsulate. This makes for a softer, more pliable and less bulky glove. We recommend that for riders who ride in above-freezing temps. Below those temps, the G3's still make plenty of heat, but you have to turn them up higher. That creates a greater temperature disparity between the heat-producing wires and the natural hand temperature at which you want to ride. For some people, that means the gloves feel a little "hot" when it gets really cold. I wear my G3's most cold days here in WA, although I was out in 29 degrees (and not raining, yay!) last Saturday and I took my T5's.
The 100-gram Thinsulate in the T5's does mean that this is a slightly heavier glove. It's also a little stiffer, although mine have broken in and are like butter to wear. With the extra insulation, the T5's require a bit less heat at sub-freezing temps, as less heat is lost to contact transfer with the cold air, and more heat is retained inside the glove (all gloves, regardless of build, lose heat to the environment on cold days). The T5's, because of their extra insulation, were designed with flexure points at the knuckles and on the back of the hand, along with stiff knuckle pads to help deflect minor road debris. This requires more pieces and more labor in their manufacture, and therefore they're priced higher than the G3's. In fact, the name T5 came about because it's a more "Technical" glove to manufacture. And just in case you were wondering, the name G3 was given to that glove because it had three small "Gel" pads in the palms (The T5, introduced a couple of years later, also has gel palm pads).
Some discussion has been offered regarding which gloves are waterproof. All our gloves come with a waterproof membrane. This means your hands will stay dry. However, the leather outer is not waterproof, which means it can get wet. Permanent waterproofing of leather has, in our testing, adverse effects on the long-term life of the leather. And if the leather cracks, you're left with a leaking glove and no interior moisture barrier. Temporary repeatable waterproofing treatments, such as NikWax's Glove Proof or Sno-Seal, do an excellent job of repelling water, need to be repeated only about twice a year, and do not have adverse effects on the leather, so your investment lasts longer.
Sizing has also been discussed. Industry experts agree that the two things we motorcyclist purchase that are generally too large to function as intended are helmets and gloves. We urge our customers to get the gloves that fit the snuggest, yet are comfortable. This is particularly true with winter gloves, where you don't want to be dealing with both the added thickness, as well as a fit that's too large. And remember, leather will stretch a little. My first Gerbing's G3's were a size Large. The sizing hasn't changed, but I now wear a Medium. I get better heat, better feel of my bike's controls, and a pair of gloves that have shaped themselves to the point where they feel like they were custom made. However, each customer must make that decision for themselves.
Aaron, your decision to go with a controller, and Jim's seconding of that decision, are wise. When you do, let me suggest the dual controller, since you indicated that you're wanting the Jacket Liner as well. Our Jacket Liners are set up with Dual-Zone Wiring, which means there are two independent circuits inside. One circuit heats all sections of the jacket liner (chest, back, collar and sleeves). The second circuit goes directly to the glove plugs at the end of each sleeve. By connecting our Dual Temp Controller to the two input plugs, you will be able to set your torso heat (jacket liner) independently of your glove heat. That means you don't have to compromise one for the other and you'll be a lot more comfortable.
I hope this information has been helpful. As those of you who have followed my posts know, I try to explain things about our products and I try to never disparage a competitor's products. They're good people and they're trying to do their best. Furthermore, we don't believe there are any "bad" products among the major heated clothing manufacturers. Just good products and better products. Obviously Gerbing's is the latter attested to by our dominant position in the market. And yet Gerbing's also understands that some people will purchase competing products anyway. That's fine. We just want to make sure you do so from an informed perspective and that you are as happy with your purchase as our customers are with theirs. When that happens, everyone wins.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Re: New heated Gerbing T5 gloves
Lots of questions here, and maybe I can help. The general differences between the G3's and the T5's is insulation and construction. The G3's are thinner, with 70 grams of Thinsulate. This makes for a softer, more pliable and less bulky glove. We recommend that for riders who ride in above-freezing temps. Below those temps, the G3's still make plenty of heat, but you have to turn them up higher. That creates a greater temperature disparity between the heat-producing wires and the natural hand temperature at which you want to ride. For some people, that means the gloves feel a little "hot" when it gets really cold. I wear my G3's most cold days here in WA, although I was out in 29 degrees (and not raining, yay!) last Saturday and I took my T5's.
The 100-gram Thinsulate in the T5's does mean that this is a slightly heavier glove. It's also a little stiffer, although mine have broken in and are like butter to wear. With the extra insulation, the T5's require a bit less heat at sub-freezing temps, as less heat is lost to contact transfer with the cold air, and more heat is retained inside the glove (all gloves, regardless of build, lose heat to the environment on cold days). The T5's, because of their extra insulation, were designed with flexure points at the knuckles and on the back of the hand, along with stiff knuckle pads to help deflect minor road debris. This requires more pieces and more labor in their manufacture, and therefore they're priced higher than the G3's. In fact, the name T5 came about because it's a more "Technical" glove to manufacture. And just in case you were wondering, the name G3 was given to that glove because it had three small "Gel" pads in the palms (The T5, introduced a couple of years later, also has gel palm pads).
Some discussion has been offered regarding which gloves are waterproof. All our gloves come with a waterproof membrane. This means your hands will stay dry. However, the leather outer is not waterproof, which means it can get wet. Permanent waterproofing of leather has, in our testing, adverse effects on the long-term life of the leather. And if the leather cracks, you're left with a leaking glove and no interior moisture barrier. Temporary repeatable waterproofing treatments, such as NikWax's Glove Proof or Sno-Seal, do an excellent job of repelling water, need to be repeated only about twice a year, and do not have adverse effects on the leather, so your investment lasts longer.
Sizing has also been discussed. Industry experts agree that the two things we motorcyclist purchase that are generally too large to function as intended are helmets and gloves. We urge our customers to get the gloves that fit the snuggest, yet are comfortable. This is particularly true with winter gloves, where you don't want to be dealing with both the added thickness, as well as a fit that's too large. And remember, leather will stretch a little. My first Gerbing's G3's were a size Large. The sizing hasn't changed, but I now wear a Medium. I get better heat, better feel of my bike's controls, and a pair of gloves that have shaped themselves to the point where they feel like they were custom made. However, each customer must make that decision for themselves.
Aaron, your decision to go with a controller, and Jim's seconding of that decision, are wise. When you do, let me suggest the dual controller, since you indicated that you're wanting the Jacket Liner as well. Our Jacket Liners are set up with Dual-Zone Wiring, which means there are two independent circuits inside. One circuit heats all sections of the jacket liner (chest, back, collar and sleeves). The second circuit goes directly to the glove plugs at the end of each sleeve. By connecting our Dual Temp Controller to the two input plugs, you will be able to set your torso heat (jacket liner) independently of your glove heat. That means you don't have to compromise one for the other and you'll be a lot more comfortable.
I hope this information has been helpful. As those of you who have followed my posts know, I try to explain things about our products and I try to never disparage a competitor's products. They're good people and they're trying to do their best. Furthermore, we don't believe there are any "bad" products among the major heated clothing manufacturers. Just good products and better products. Obviously Gerbing's is the latter attested to by our dominant position in the market. And yet Gerbing's also understands that some people will purchase competing products anyway. That's fine. We just want to make sure you do so from an informed perspective and that you are as happy with your purchase as our customers are with theirs. When that happens, everyone wins.
#3
#5
#6
Had both and G3s are my fav. T5s are to bulky. One big thing with either glove, Make sure the connector plug has a 90 degree angle molded in. the straight connector was made by another company which only put heating wires on the back and not on the palm. There are still some of them floating around out there.
#7
Had both and G3s are my fav. T5s are to bulky. One big thing with either glove, Make sure the connector plug has a 90 degree angle molded in. the straight connector was made by another company which only put heating wires on the back and not on the palm. There are still some of them floating around out there.
Just curious if anyone else has this issue? Either way, I'll call Gerbing and see what they say.
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#8
Never heard that one before... My jacket liner and T-5's are about 3 years old and definitely have a straight connector plug from the dual controller into the pigtail. The jacket liner will actually get too hot if turned up all the way so I usually keep it at about 50%. The gloves definitely keep my hands from getting cold but don't really ever get to where I can really feel a lot of heat. I usually keep the gloves control **** turned all the way up.
Just curious if anyone else has this issue? Either way, I'll call Gerbing and see what they say.
Just curious if anyone else has this issue? Either way, I'll call Gerbing and see what they say.
I learned of this over a year ago. Confirmed by Gerbing and as I deal with Granprixmotorsports for my Gerbing items, they also were aware of it. BTW, buy calling granprix, they will discount grebing 20%. Have and love my Gerbing from neck to toes!!!
#9
#10
Since I had heart surgery and am now on blood thinner I can't seem to take the cold like before.I bought the jacket liner and G3s and it's money well spent.We don't get extreme cold here but sometime it's in the 40s when we start out and usually warms up from there.The Gerbing's have really made my riding more bareable.I would have bought the T5s but they were out of stock so I went with G3s and am glad I did.I only have to put the controller about half way,any more is too hot.