Interesting you mentioned this, 'cause I did it this way on my old RK, which went 106k on the original belt and still going. I've had a belt gauge for about 10 years and never used it, but thought I would start with this bike.

 

I'm familiar with removing the muffler, though don't relish the thought of it, but wanted to know if anyone had used a standard socket to remove the nut without hassling with the muffler. I also thought about removing just the back bolts, but again was hoping someone had done it without that step. You're right, though--no big deal. And on a new bike it should slip right off, especially since I installed the Rush's using anti-seize.

I measured the nut at 1.43" with a dial caliper, 36mm is 1.417" and 1 7/16" is 1.438"--which is closer to the latter. I must've been a bit sloppy with my measurement.

 

I guess that's the best way, just remove the friggin' muffler and do it. Unless these new belts are different and based on my experience with my '96 RK, it shouldn't need much adjustment. I think I adjusted that bike's belt once in 106k miles, and it was a very small change at that.

I always used Bryan's method for adjustment, the old twist-it-half-way trick. Like I said earlier, I've had a gauge for 10 years but never used it, but thought I might start with this new bike.

 

I've always torqued axles and would probably lose sleep if I didn't. I just checked using the old half-twist technique and it feels about right, but using the gauge it shows 1" of travel at 10 lbs. of pressure, well off the 1/4 - 5/16" spec.

 

i gaurantee i can get 100ft lbs with a big ole monkey wrinch...plus its got a c-clip to retain it

 

No need to remove the Muffler on my RK. The 36mm socket fits under just fine. Oh wait I have a 2-1 Thunderheader

 

Tried one today and it fit on mine too. Question answered. Thanks to all.

 

Instructions are on pages 1-20 and 1-21 of my 2007 touring manual. There is a belt tension gauge - part number HD-35381A. Applying 10 pounds of force at the center of the belt is should deflect 3/8/ to 7/16 " (FLHR/C, FLHT/C/U, FLTR or 1/4 - 5/16 (FLHRS,FLHX). "Axe" nut is re-torqued to 95-105 ft-lbs. It does not specify the nut size - there isanother special HD tool HD-47925, Axel Nut Torque Adapter, that is used in the instructions. The adapter ensures proper re-torquing.

 

My original question was whether or not the HD tool was necessary, and after borrowing one from a friend I found out yesterday that a standard 36mm socket fits fine without removing the right muffler. Of course, an extension is necessary since there isn't room for the ratchet. The only reason you would need the HD tool is if there isn't clearance for a socket, and I would imagine most FLH's will not fit, as the SG and RK Custom have lowered rear suspensions, moving the axle height up in relation to the muffler enough to allow clearance.