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Remove front wheel from bike with ABS

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  #1  
Old 01-07-2013 | 10:07 AM
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Default Remove front wheel from bike with ABS

I will be replacing fork lowers on my 2011 Limited with chrome ones very soon. I have done alot of research on this and have collected all the special tools required I think? I have changed the forks on my former VTX without any issues, but my Limited has ABS. I have read the service manual and looked on youtube concerning the ABS switch, can't find anything in detail, am I over thinking this? For those that have removed the front wheel with ABS, are there any special tricks or advice I need to know without finding out the hard way?

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 01-07-2013 | 10:36 AM
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07JakeelwoodHD
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There is no special trick abs senor is on the left side u should have a shop manual so u have the proper torque vaules The biggest pain in the *** was the removal of the faring and getting to the bolts under it..Good luck its will take about 3 hrs to do the job
 
  #3  
Old 01-07-2013 | 10:53 AM
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the ABS sensor comes out like an axle spacer - just don't hang the wheel on the wire while you pull the axle.

one thing you have to be careful is to get the little nub on the sensor in the right place when you re-install the wheel. I agree w/ advice to get the manual or find it online.

have fun
 
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Old 01-07-2013 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by nivensid
I have read the service manual and looked on youtube concerning the ABS switch, can't find anything in detail, am I over thinking this?
He has a manual! Why do you guys keep telling him to get one??
 
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Old 01-07-2013 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe12RK
the ABS sensor comes out like an axle spacer - just don't hang the wheel on the wire while you pull the axle.

one thing you have to be careful is to get the little nub on the sensor in the right place when you re-install the wheel. I agree w/ advice to get the manual or find it online.

have fun

Thanks, I have the manual just asking from those who have done this for any advice that may help. Somtimes there are little secrets and tips that are not in the manual.
 
  #6  
Old 01-07-2013 | 11:35 AM
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As stated above the abs sensor is on the left side of the axle instead of a spacer. The wheel has an abs bearing in it. That is all that is different from a non abs bike.
 
  #7  
Old 01-07-2013 | 11:51 AM
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I would use new seals. I would also replace the cans. The polished will look different than the chrome. While you're in there add some intiminators and racetech springs or progressive monotubes to improve the front end.
 
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Old 01-07-2013 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SG_Dave
I would use new seals. I would also replace the cans. The polished will look different than the chrome. While you're in there add some intiminators and racetech springs or progressive monotubes to improve the front end.
definately replace the cans, I didn't and it didnt look right so i did it again.
 
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Old 01-07-2013 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SG_Dave
I would use new seals. I would also replace the cans. The polished will look different than the chrome. While you're in there add some intiminators and racetech springs or progressive monotubes to improve the front end.
My dealer suggested I change the cans, I purchased some of the chrome ones. I am glad be brought it to my attention. I have new seals waiting to be installed also and have the chrome wheel spacers like on a CVO. I also have the polished rotors, I need to get to work.
 
  #10  
Old 01-07-2013 | 05:04 PM
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You will have more trouble with the little plastic retainer clip than anything else, you can use a flat head screwdriver from behind to help guide it most of the way back on- but be careful not to scratch your caliper. When you re-install the sensor, rotate it counterclockwise so the plastic tit makes contact with the fork lower.
As for the seals if you know someone with the tool it would help you, otherwise make sure you have a piece of PVC that's the correct size. You can check it by sliding it into the top your new sliders before you get started- the seal sits against the first "ledge". Against what I was told, 2" ID schedule 40 doesn't work, at least it didn't when I tried.

Also don't forget to replace the 6mm hex screws and copper crush washers on the bottom, the old washers will be distorted. They are cheap anyway.
 


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