I installed my new 31 tooth trans pulley tonight. I only had blue loctite so I used that on the pulley nut, and torqued to spec. Also blue loctite on the retaining bracket allen bolts. I know the manual calls for red. Is the red overkill? Or should I pick up some red and redo the pulley install before I get everything back together?
I'm just starting to second guess my decision to use blue over the red

Btw The nut came off with my IR 1/2" impact with no problems. No heat was needed, and it didn't look like there was much red loctite on the nut.

 

Wouldn't worry about it at all! The point is you lock-tighted it, which should be done

 

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I disagree. Red loctite CAN be undone. I have bookoo red and recently bought a big bottle of blue which I cannot find. Go with the red.

 

If you don't have it all back together, get some red and redo; doesn't take much. You are probably OK with blue and the nut is locked down with the retainer plate but why not do it right if you have the time. Always better to be safe than sorry.

 

My thoughts exactly. Just wanted some opinions from the board. I looked up the differences. And the red has twice the break away torque once cured. Just wish Harley would give an exact torque number. Their procedure of torque to 100lb, back off one full turn, torque to 35lb, then 30-40* is a little troublesome. Plus you have to move the pulley locking tool each time you change directions! Why not just torque to 140-150lb?

 

The MoCo change the torque spec for the trans pulley nut in the later models. Both my bikes are earlier models; '02 FLHT and '05 FXSTD. The torque spec for the trans pulley for both is 120# but not to exceed 150#. Don't know why that wouldn't work for the later models as well??

 

You've read the directions on the loctite, so you should know that the blue is for smaller bolts/nuts/screws. And the red is for larger fasteners because of the additional holding capacity.

Although there is a lock plate, with enough vibration a loose nut can cause damage to the lock plate and allow the nut to back off, over the top of the lock plate. Myself, I would redo with the red just for peace of mind...

As for the torque specs, I have used just an impact gun without bothering with the torque wrench. But, I would never tell somebody else to do that, since I cannot be totally confident that you and I have identically calibrated feeling in our arms/hands...

 

The way a fastener works is in the elasticity of the stud or bolt. When you tighten a nut down onto a stud the stud actually stretches but the torque specification halts the stretch before it yields (breaks).

I believe the intention of the procedure is to stretch the stud so when you reach the final (lesser) tension the stud will be 'set' at the preferred stretch point.

Just my theory regarding the procedure, but the first para is a known.

 

i also would use the red loctite,i would have put some on the splines of the main drive gear before i put the pulley on.just my 2 cents.

 

Come on folks let's not be **** about loctite, using blue loctite is plenty strong to stop just about ANY nut or bolt from becoming loose, and hopefully it's assembled properly to begin with!

I use loctite products on an array of things, from building custom hunting rifles, working on motorcycles, to farm equipment. So here is some accurate info...

Purple = 222-Use on thread diameter up to 1/4", easy removal with hand-tools.

Blue = 242-Use on thread diameter 1/4" and above, remove with standard hand-tools, may require power-tools depending on application.

Red = 262-Considered 'permanent' requires power tools and/or heat for removal.

Green = 272-This stuff is just plain evil! Do not use on any firearm!

Matt