Hi folks,

So here is my issue...is it worth it to remove the stock headers knowing I have to replace them once every two years for mandatory inspection(shaken)? It's something they do here in Japan on cars and motorcycles. PITA!
Most cats only do slip ons here because of this.
Actually the stock mufflers here are quieter than those stateside. Harley does them "special" to meet Japan's regs. The engine ends up being louder than the exhaust.

So my question above remains...is it worth it...and is it a relatively easy DIY job? Seems so, but just want to hear from some of you.

Cheers

 

As far as changing the header pipe out, it's not that bad at all. Get a service manual and you will see the removal and installation steps along with torque values for the exhaust flange nuts. (as well as the proper order and initial torque/final torque recommendations) Spray the exhaust flange nuts with some penetrating fluid (Liquid Wrench, etc.) the night before to soften and loosen things up. That way you will have no trouble removing the nuts and will not damage any of the exhaust port studs in the process.

If I were you and could ride two years between changes, yes, I would do it. It's worth it to get rid of the heat and let the bike breathe.

 

Appreciate the comments. In fact, your current exhaust is exactly what I've been thinking of ordering. I'm liking Jackpot's offerings. That along with their breather and a Power Vision.

Cheers

 

Sounds cool. Remember to always use new exhaust port gaskets and new muffler clamps whenever the header goes back on. Sure, some guys re-use them, but you are taking a chance with exhaust leaks and it's no fun taking it all apart again a second time with the new gaskets that should have been used anyway. After you have traveled a few hundred miles with the new header, check the torque on the exhaust flange nuts one more time to ensure they are at spec. Sometimes they loosen just a tad (heat induced) and need a little snug to get them back to torque spec. After this secondary torque (if needed) they will usually stay put.

When you remove the cross-under pipe that goes over to the left side, you may or may not be able to re-use that $8 gasket. I ruined mine when I switched over to the Fuel Moto stainless header and tried to "force" the issue. (not the header's fault, it was my fault) So I suggest you have one on hand just in case you ruin yours. I had to use a small pipe to expand the crossover pipes mouth a bit so the new gasket would fit in it without having to put any pressure on the gasket at all to get it to slide in. It also helps to smear some silver anti-seize paste on the inside of that gasket. This serves as a lubricant to aid in reassembly. There will be a need for a new clamp for that crossover piece as well. (but only if you want to do it right ).

Use some of that same silver anti-seize where your mufflers attach to the header, and on the exhaust flange nuts. If you ever change plugs, remember to use a little of it on their threads as well. Be careful not to get any of the anti-seize anywhere close to the anode-cathode area of the spark plug. Use anti-seize on the threads of any O2 sensors you install in the new header. Remember to keep the anti-seize well away from the end of the sampling end of the O2 sensor (the end that extends into the header).

If you switch to the FM header, you can always install your stock 12mm O2 sensors in the pipe and just plug them back into their respective sockets when it's time for your next emissions test. Of course you will need to flash your Ecm back to the stock flash for that exercise as well. Working it this way, there may not be any need to change the header. It all depends on what the exhaust police are measuring in the exhaust stream. The cat converter serves to reduce hydrocarbon emissions, and if it is not present, their equipment might detect a higher output of these pollutants. If that is a real possibility, then it's probably just best to swap the header since this may be the the best solution to your bi-annual "compliance" issue.

 

I appreciate the informative write up, friend! I'll definetly take it all in to consideration once tackling the project.

By the way, I do believe we've got the same model/year...only reversed two-tone. I like them both a lot.

Cheers

 

Is 35 mph still the max speed limit in Japan? That's what it was when I was there back in the 70's. Sure would limit your riding on a Harley.

 

Is the inspection just a visual, or do they do air testing? If it is just visual to see if the head pipe has been changed, then just gut the cat and you will be close to what a 2-1-2 aftermarket head pipe would be, and the heat shields will cover the opening where you took the cat out and welded the hole up. Or you can just take the head pipe off and drill the cat out without having to cut and weld the side of the head pipe. This lets you keep the 02 sensors in place and everything looks original

If you then go with a Power Commander V for a tuner, all you have to do for the inspection is take the PC V out (5 min), and plug the 02 sensors back in. The 02 sensors are normally left unplugged when you add the PC V.

Bill

 

Sorry Bill, but you are simply not going to "drill" out the cat material. It's way too stubborn for that. Additionally, the limited design of the stock header is way behind a properly designed 2-1-2 stainless header. No contest. But many settle for a de-catted stock pipe either for money issues or whatever, so each to his own.

 

Do it ! Get the new X pipe, and some extra flange gaskets the service manual and your good to go.

When you are done with the swap you may notice your stock mufflers have a little more sound coming out . Good luck

 

Did not read all the suggestions but removing slip on is no big deal as long as you do not over tighten (an ring the outer pipe inward) The hangers are what holds it on. This you can torque. The fancy pipe clamp can be reused if not rusty and smooth. Just tighten till all play is out and then about 1/4 inch more.. The header pipe should always be replace with the proper HARDENED locking type nut. Never ever reuse or substitute others. If you do not over tighten the header pipes you should easily get at least one reuse of the woven gaskets. Just look up in there and make sure they are not squashed out into exhaust port excessive. Snug the header nut and about 1/4" more and place your hand close or use a piece of paper and look for motion indicating a leak. NO leaks? Good to go. I can see them inspecting mufflers but what are they pulling header pipes for? Do they not have a sniffer to check exhaust for what it should be like they do in Northern Virginia and other area's that require this?