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Apes install, wiring connector questions.

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  #11  
Old 11-24-2012, 12:35 PM
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I have to tutorial on how to install apes. Here is a link. It might help you. If not, send me a PM.

2012 Street Glide Ape Install Tutorial
 
  #12  
Old 11-24-2012, 03:38 PM
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Got the wires pulled. Getting ready to reinstall the connectors after I eat this lunch. No dealer in the STATE has one of those connecters so I am going to try
moving the wire to a spare hole. If I cant Ill just have to order one.

Originally Posted by titched
What bike do have and what bars are you using? I have a 2008 FLHRC and I am thinking about Wild One502. I know I have to change brake and clutch but I was wondering if I need to extend wires after reading this post.
Its an 09FLHT and I am using Wild1s 12 1/2" bagger bars. Dunno the number.
 
  #13  
Old 11-24-2012, 04:02 PM
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09FLHT -

if you PM me your email, I'll send you a link to download a wiring diagram for those switches.... it shows what color wire goes to each switch (start, run, left turn, horn, cruise, etc) and also shows where that wire goes in the plug.... will that help??
 
  #14  
Old 11-24-2012, 04:41 PM
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It, may not relate to your project but....

There seems to be a technic when working with the electronic throttle control wires. They need to go in first. They will go past the first bend. Then the "other cable of wires" will go through the first bend and past the throttle wire connectors. If one tries to put the throttle wire connectors in after the "other cable of wires" the connectors will not go past the first bend. The "other cable of wires" take up too much room for the connectors to pass in the bend. But if the throttle wire connectors are past the first bend the "other cable of wires" have sufficient room to make it through the bend and then past the throttle wire connectors. This took me about 2 hours to learn.

My write up for whe I put on new bars is here;

There may be something there to help you.
 
  #15  
Old 11-24-2012, 10:01 PM
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ALL DAY is how long it took to reassemble all the connectors. WHAT A PAIN IN MY ****ING ***.
But the bars are on, the inner fairing is on. Tomorrow is exhaust, clutch cable and brake lines and button it all up day.

Have any of you guys who have used the bigger diameter bars been able to use the rubber pieces that fill the gap between the dash and the bars? I cant get the dash to fit with the rubber in place.
 
  #16  
Old 11-24-2012, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 09FLHT
ALL DAY is how long it took to reassemble all the connectors. WHAT A PAIN IN MY ****ING ***.
But the bars are on, the inner fairing is on. Tomorrow is exhaust, clutch cable and brake lines and button it all up day.

Have any of you guys who have used the bigger diameter bars been able to use the rubber pieces that fill the gap between the dash and the bars? I cant get the dash to fit with the rubber in place.
I had to cut my rubber pieces in half.
 
  #17  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by glcash
I had to cut my rubber pieces in half.
How so?
 
  #18  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt0987
It, may not relate to your project but....

There seems to be a technic when working with the electronic throttle control wires. They need to go in first. They will go past the first bend. Then the "other cable of wires" will go through the first bend and past the throttle wire connectors. If one tries to put the throttle wire connectors in after the "other cable of wires" the connectors will not go past the first bend. The "other cable of wires" take up too much room for the connectors to pass in the bend. But if the throttle wire connectors are past the first bend the "other cable of wires" have sufficient room to make it through the bend and then past the throttle wire connectors. This took me about 2 hours to learn.

My write up for whe I put on new bars is here;

There may be something there to help you.
Yeah, what Matt said. The wires for the TBW are such thin gauge that they will break if you pull too hard. And, when I broke mine, it wouldn't work at all after I butt soldered it back together. I read somewhere that the wire is so thin gauge that it doesn't carry enough current to get past the resistance in a simple solder joint. It needs to be a complete wire from end to end.

Mike
 
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