Originally Posted by im

This happens more than most want to believe and it is very easy to strip.
The choices are pretty much what you linked to: over sized, piggy back and then what is sometimes the overlooked option of a slightly longer drain plug bolt..If you go to NAPA autoparts with your original drain plug the counter person will measure the plug for you for diameter, thread type(course/fine) and pitch.
From my experience:
1-over sized piggy back sometimes creates a clearance problem on some bikes when using a floor jack and is very deep when compared to your regular drain plug thus eating alot of good threads. Also the provided o-ring sucks.
2-the 1 time oversized magnetic drain plugs are very good IMO, do not eat away a bunch of good threads and look factory to the naked eye just in case that is important to you.
3- a longer NOT over sized drain plug would catch/hold onto deeper threads in the case but will not have a magnet and the head size of bolt will be smaller..just information not that it matters.
*Finally: none of the above choices allows for an o-ring but the use of white liquid thread sealant solves that problem....there are individuals that have ground a small o-ring slot with a dremel type tool for #3
In an emergency situation i have seen someone just remove the o-ring and put teflon tape on the original plug. removal of the o-ring allowed the plug to sit a little deeper and bite into a good thread.
But your best bet might be NAPA although they might cost $8 instead of $3 at advance/pep boys or other place but they usually have informed counter people.
Torque wrenches sometimes become an issue with drain plugs because of positioning and low torque values. Hand tight and then quarter turn with a small 1/4 type wrench.

Originally Posted by Bowhunter61

Thanks IM, this has me rethinking my approach now. I think I will run up to NAPA and see what they have and go from there. The longer plug may be the right way since I do have some good threads left in the pan that the original plug is getting too, so a longer plug may work.

Originally Posted by Bingee

If you have good threads left you should be able to use a tap to dress things up so you can use the original plug. It's worth a try. It's easy to do. And it's cheap.

Originally Posted by Bowhunter61

I thought of that first, but the problem is the first 2-4 threads are not there, they came out with the plug. So I only had have the threads there and those were OK, plug screwed in fine.

I did get the longer plug and it seated tight so I think I am good to go, I am letting the thread sealer set and I will fill with oil and see if I have any leaks.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys

Originally Posted by Leftcoaster

...A new o-ring and snug should be all you need.

Originally Posted by Fishrrman

'Not sure how this happened, I started it with my fingers for the first 3 full turns and then was using a torque wrench to tighten'

The LAST thing anyone wants to do is to use a torque wrench on the oil and transmission drain plugs.

You don't even want to use a socket wrench or even a "regular" (open or box end) wrench on them.

Look at the end of the drain plug -- it's got a 1/4" allen-head wrench hole there.

Thread the bolt in by hand as far as it will go, then take a small L-shaped 1/4" allen wrench, put the small end of the "L" into the hole, and "hand-tighten" it. You will get it tight enough, but the small wrench means you won't over-torque it and strip it out.

I've done this for years, and NEVER had a problem with a loose bolt later on. Never stripped a thread, either.