Drive pulley change question??
#22
11-22-2012 | 10:30 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,342
Likes: 677
ok guys I've done some homework,07-08 66tooth rear stock can use 68 tooth sportster pulley and retain ids,09^ is already 68, front pulley 32 aftermarket 30 or 31.primary,if your crazy enough to loose the compensator evo industries makes a smaller gear, or they make a clutch basket gear a couple teeth larger.forum member dawg has used the compensated gear and the clutch basket gear.
#23
12-25-2012 | 07:33 PM
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 16
From: SE Michigan
Taller gearing?
OP has a 2012, stock rear pulleys is a 68t. It was the 07-08 bikes with the 66t rear pulley. You can reduce to a 30t trans pulley, you'll likely need to install a one tooth smaller drive belt.
I'm running the 30/68 rear drive, with a stock 07 137t drive belt. I adjusted the speedo with tts. It's a cheap upgrade that makes a noticible difference. My bike is a 107 at 10.75 cr, with tw8 cams, ported heads and SE throttle body and clutch upgrades. The final drive seems just about perfect. Any taller gearing, and the motor would be spinning higher than I'd like out on the freeway.
I'm running the 30/68 rear drive, with a stock 07 137t drive belt. I adjusted the speedo with tts. It's a cheap upgrade that makes a noticible difference. My bike is a 107 at 10.75 cr, with tw8 cams, ported heads and SE throttle body and clutch upgrades. The final drive seems just about perfect. Any taller gearing, and the motor would be spinning higher than I'd like out on the freeway.
I went from a 30T transmission pulley to a 32T on my '91 FLHS 5 speed and lowered my rpms around 300 rpm in 5th gear so getting better mileage and not wound out to hell at high speeds. I made the gearing "taller".
#24
12-26-2012 | 06:57 AM
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,872
From: Bedford UK
I bought my 1990 FLHS new and being an International model it also had a 61T rear pulley, which I have more recently changed to a stock US spec 70T. With a 107" in it now that gearing is fine!
#25
12-26-2012 | 08:16 AM
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,611
Likes: 151
From: Indiana, USA
Could be wrong but IMO the drive belt option will cost more and take longer to install. Most people do not have the tools required to get the mainshaft bearing race and mainshaft sprocket nut off to replace the front sprocket.
Gearing
Outer Primary Gasket - $25 USD
Inner Primary O-Ring - $3 USD
Quart Primary Chaincase Lube - $5 USD
Inner Primary Seal - $5 USD
Mainshaft Bearing Removal Tool - $200 USD
Mainshaft Sprocket Pulley Nut removal Tool - $150 USD
Primary Drive Locking Tool - $35 USD
Front Pulley - $35 USD
Rear Pulley - $50 USD
Shorter Belt - $175 USD
Labor – 6 Hours Minimum for the Novice
Total Project - 6hr + $683 USD with 10% Speedo offset running engine 10% higher RPM’s
Cams
Cam Chest Gasket Kit - $40 USD
Magnetic Lifter Holders - $20 USD
Camshaft Removal Installation Tool - $130 USD
Cams - $300 USD
Adjustable Pushrods - $100 USD
Labor – 3 Hours Minimum for the Novice
Total Project - 3hr + $590 USD and no Speedo offset
Gearing
Outer Primary Gasket - $25 USD
Inner Primary O-Ring - $3 USD
Quart Primary Chaincase Lube - $5 USD
Inner Primary Seal - $5 USD
Mainshaft Bearing Removal Tool - $200 USD
Mainshaft Sprocket Pulley Nut removal Tool - $150 USD
Primary Drive Locking Tool - $35 USD
Front Pulley - $35 USD
Rear Pulley - $50 USD
Shorter Belt - $175 USD
Labor – 6 Hours Minimum for the Novice
Total Project - 6hr + $683 USD with 10% Speedo offset running engine 10% higher RPM’s
Cams
Cam Chest Gasket Kit - $40 USD
Magnetic Lifter Holders - $20 USD
Camshaft Removal Installation Tool - $130 USD
Cams - $300 USD
Adjustable Pushrods - $100 USD
Labor – 3 Hours Minimum for the Novice
Total Project - 3hr + $590 USD and no Speedo offset
#26
12-26-2012 | 04:25 PM
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 16
From: SE Michigan
#27
12-26-2012 | 04:35 PM
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 20,530
Likes: 2,305
From: texas panhandle
Thanks again for the info. I think the 30th pulley will be my next project and hopefully head work down the road. So by changing both pulleys there is only a 5% increase in torque? The ones who have done the changes seem to be very happy. I'm running 255s at this time and am very please-but they seem to run out at about 3800 4000 rpms.
#28
12-26-2012 | 05:47 PM
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 16
From: SE Michigan
The "goal" is by going to "shorter" gearing you get more torque and faster throttle response but lower top end speed in any given gear at any given rpm. By going "taller" in gearing you give up some response/torque but gain top end speed at any given rpm in any gear.
So it depends what change you are looking for. Since I am more of a long distance high speed rider I went "taller" gearing by increasing my final drive transmission pulley diameter from 32T stock to 34T. What that did is move the bike farther for each revolution of the pulley or "taller" geaing.
So it depends what change you are looking for. Since I am more of a long distance high speed rider I went "taller" gearing by increasing my final drive transmission pulley diameter from 32T stock to 34T. What that did is move the bike farther for each revolution of the pulley or "taller" geaing.
#29
12-26-2012 | 05:54 PM
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 20,530
Likes: 2,305
From: texas panhandle
#30
12-26-2012 | 06:02 PM
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Rochester,NY
Thanks for all the responses and suggestions, I think I'm just gonna do cams and be done with it, I had no clue that changing the drive pullys on a Harley were so labor intensive(thanks the provided cost breakdown!!) so cams are in the works while its snowing here... Thanks again and Happy New Year