Need your help guys, I think my clutch is going out. My bike revs high while rolling on the throttle in the higher gears (4th, 5th, 6th) mainly...just like if I engaged the clutch. Does it in lower gears but not as much. I thought for a minute maybe my tts was going bad, because one day it would not throttle down from 2k rpms while at idle. It finally went away after I started going. It hasn't done the high idle thing since, but has been doing the slipping every since.

I'm going to open it up today after work and see what I can find. I will do a clutch adjustment first and see if that will work, but I doubt it.

My questions...

1. What kind of physical damage would I be looking for when I take off the derby cover (to identify a bad clutch)?

2. If the clutch needs to be replaced, which set-up should I go with?

3. I've never replaced a clutch, is there any tricks of the trade, tips to make the removal/install easier?

4. I also had the shop put in a VPC (not sure which one) when I did the 107". Replace that too?

5. Although I have a service manual, is there a write up or video online showing step by step directions for replacing a clutch?

Thanks for the help!

 

Do a youtube search. There are video's on clutch replacement. But I believe a proper adjustment and you'll be back on the road.

 

I would just replace the frictions and plates with stock ones unless you are planning on going above 120hp.

 

Unless you have smoked them out, a quick adjustment should get you back happy.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

hi .check for tickness of friction plate.if you replace with stock one .go with s.e.spring. if remenber right 3 styles.or go with barnett clutch .117 h.p. take a good grab to hold .mrfuji

 

I'm at 120tq/117hp.

 

When you take the clutch apart, inspect the color of your steel plates. If they have an even 'silver' color your clutch is fine and didn't overheat. If they have yellow areas this means they reached the acceptable operating temperature of the IPB. Blue plates mean the IPB has reached annealing conditions and will soon deteriorate.
Have a look at annealing temperatures here:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/te...el-d_1530.html

In our clutch design the temperature buildup occurs where you have the greatest linear speed, ie towards the basket. Then the basket conducts heat to the outer race of the bearing...

 

have you even tried adjusting the clutch yet? First thing to do for sure.

 

As said try adjustment first, but you would look for burnt oil thats thick meaning the fiber material is in the oil. If youre going to replace Id recommend going with a kevlar discs they will take more heat before breaking down. A way to check your discs and plates is to lay them on a piece of glass to check for warpage.
But if your going to do discs do the whole thing, youre in there and I think its only $50 more for metal discs. SE is more than adequate for a stock or mildly built motor.