Trying to install new pipes on my SG, but not finding a torque wrench thats as sensitive as the service manual calls for. According to the book I need set the first torque at 9-18 in-lbs, the last is from 100-120. Anyone know who makes wrench this sensitive?

Thanks,

 

Harbor Freight sells an inch lb. torque wrench

 

Unless you work day in and day out with a torque wrench just go by feel.....until you can get the feel for those things that only working with all the time gets you, they will put you in a world of hurt by snapping **** off......its not super imperative to get it dead on speck unless your inside the engine.MHO.

 

Gear Wrench does but if you have a standard torque wrench, set it at 1 to 1.5 ft. lbs and you will have it. Orrrr with a ratchet wrench, place your hand just below the ratchet and tighten the nuts as tight as you can with your hand in this position.

 

Sears sells them I bought one a few months ago for $75.00 on sale.

 

When I was in the service I was a helicopter mechanic. Our hardware manual instructed us, when no specific torque was listed in the appropriate manual, to turn the nut while holding the bold head still, until it engages a steep rise in friction (snug) then tighten 1/4 turn.

I always tighten to snug + 1/4 turn and its never let me down.

 

Grainger carries them. Hit up your network of friends. At least the mechanically inclined ones. Someone will have one.

First time I changed my primary fluid I had to suffer through a stripped out torx head because some ham fisted guy who obviously didnt have a in lbs torque wrench. Sucked!

 

harbor freight

they are on sale for $19.99 right now, grab your favorite American Iron or Baggers mag and go get one

or just use some lock-tite

 

Jegs, Summitt. Whatever you do, find one and use it. The exhaust head flange nut application is one that qualifies as critical; the gasket is very soft and easily squished with too much force from the do it by feel techneque. The low torque value steps in the procedure ensure light even pressure on all 4 fasteners, which is whats needed for a nice leak free install. Tip; clean the studs good with a wire brush and use new flanged cinch nuts.

 

Think if you read on that is just a snug to remove play at head and align exhaust. You follow up with 60-80 in lbs to finish on the same nut. Not telling you what to do but I would just tighten till there is so shake at head, do your alignment and then the finial. My comercial Harbor in lb is minimum at 20. I do have one home made for setting bearings that goes to 1 in lb but is is a beam type and I calibrate it with a hanging weight. Sure you could check your in lb one with a weight calibrated spring scale with your snap type torque wrench locked in a vice. A true in lb that low is going to be a dial type and big bucks. Way overkill for locking type exhaust header nuts. They do not work loose unless you have wrong nuts or they are worn out.