My sears click torque wrenches have worked fine for me. I'm sure there are much better tools but these have worked fine for me so I'll use them. I've snapped one of those studs before getting it "tight enough by feel". I had done it that way for years and it didn't really feel any different when it snapped. Maybe I just ate my wheaties that day. The average guy like me that works in an office and doesn't turn a wrench everyday can lose the "feel" pretty easily, if they ever had it. I got lucky and was able to get a pair of vice grips on it and back it out but it still was a pain in the *** to fix and reinstall.

 

A 1/4 drive would be perfect.

 

Good point. I missed that since on lot of cars and trucks it serves as both. My Toyota 4x4 have both but you need to pull wheel hub to get to them. Did not catch what he was doing since he still has hub on car. Still think he may have use wrench as a breaker bar after it clicked

 

Here are the torque wrenches I use. They are made by SnapOn. I have had them for several years and they work great. They are CDI Torque Wrenches. Great prices too.

TORQUE WRENCHES Micro-Adjustable Click Type
MICRO-ADJUSTABLE TORQUE WRENCHES

Metal Handle English ScaleFEATURES

• <LI class=BlackTextSmall>Dual scale, Calibrated dual direction
  <LI class=BlackTextSmall>Positive Lock with spring loaded pull down lock ring
  <LI class=BlackTextSmall>Fast, accurate and easy to set
  <LI class=BlackTextSmall>Easy-to-read Laser marked scales
  <LI class=BlackTextSmall>Most feature Quick Release buttons which provide good socket retention as well as easy socket removal
  <LI class=BlackTextSmall>Accuracy: ± 4% clockwise ± 6% CCW of indicated value, CW, from 20% to 100% of full scale
  <LI class=BlackTextSmall>Meets or exceeds ASME B107.14M-1994, ISO 6789 Standards
• Individually serialized with matching certificate of calibration traceable to N.I.S.T.

View "CLICK" Type Line
The metal handle series offers the user a rugged, industrial strength torque wrench able to withstand the rigors of professional use. Handles are lightly knurled for a tough, non-slip grip. There are 34 models of metal handle micrometer adjustable torque wrenches available.






Dr.

in. [mm]



501MRMH10-50 in. lb.1/4"11.4 - 5.4.0610.15 (257.80)1.06 (26.92)0.93 (23.62)1.06 (26.92)0.85 (.38)1501MRMH20-150 in. lb.1/4"12.8 - 15.3.1210.15 (257.80)1.06 (26.92)0.93 (23.62)1.06 (26.92)0.90 (.40)1502MRMH20-150 in. lb.3/8"12.8 - 15.3.1210.15 (257.80)1.06 (26.92)0.93 (23.62)1.06 (26.92)0.90 (.40)2002MRMH30-200 in. lb.3/8"14.0 - 22.0.1210.15 (257.80)1.06 (26.92)0.93 (23.62)1.06 (26.92)0.85 (.38)2502MRMH30-250 in. Ib.3/8"14.0 - 27.7.1211.25 (285.75)1.06 (26.92)0.93 (23.62)1.06 (26.92)0.95 (.43)7502MRMH100-750 in. Ib.3/8"514.1 - 81.9.616.00 (406.40)1.43 (36.32)1.20 (30.48)1.40 (35.56)2.50 (l.13)10002MRMH150-1000 in. Ib.3/8"519.8 - 110.2.616.00 (406.40)1.43 (36.32)1.20 (30.48)1.40 (35.56)2.50 (l.13)25003MRMH300-2500 in. lb.1/2"1039.6 - 276.91.218.00 (457.20)1.70 (43.18)1.40 (35.56)1.40 (35.56)3.20 (l.45)

 

Ultimately you will make your own decision. In my opinion, and what I actually use, is that for the weekend hobbyist grease monkey, the bending spring beam type is dependable, relatively inexpensive, and adequate for the job. The "click" type are much more convenient, but the uncertainty about calibration makes them a poor chioce for the casual user. I get things snug with a ratchet handle, then do the final tightening with the torque wrench. That is an obvious "work around" for not having a ratcheting torque wrench but I have the time, just not the money.

 

Going off of feel is not smart for the a average guy trying to torque. Unless you've torqued many things on a daily basis through the years, you have no idea what is "pretty damn close". You could always go with German torque...guden tight...good and tight. But in the instance of incremental torque, which is to properly seat something, that would not be a good idea. For the exhaust flange nuts I'd say if you don't have a tq wrench then run them on finger tight and then give about a 1/4 turn alternating b/n the two nuts. Do this about 4 times for each nut. Then give about a half turn alternating b/n the two and do this about 3 times. Then for the last tq sequence of 100-120 in lbs...I believe that's what you said it was...alternate b/n the nuts giving half turns 2 times. This is with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 6" ext. that should get you pretty close to the tq range. 1-5 in lbs off wont hurt you as most calibrated tq wrenches are off by that much anyway. It would be better to go get a tq wrench and have for future work if you plan on doing your own work on various things but if you can't get one right now this should work. Then get a tq wrench later and recheck it. I use my calibrated elbow many times for small stuff but I do have ft lb and in lb wrenches I use for what I think is critical fasteners.

 

I laugh at everyone that thinks the beam type has a better accuracy--------------When you get into ft/lbs they can be 20% off easy

 

As it was so well put already, by So-Cal street Glide.A torque wrench be it Beam style, Dial or click they can be wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy off, I dont care if its brand new or 20yrs old. Unless it get calibrated regularly they are ( In my Opinion mind you) worthless as a hood prop rod.
And many high end torque wrenchs can be adjusted, unlike cheap ones.

BUT bottom line....To the original poster do what ever you feel is best
PS you might google "torque angle" which is as also stated basically tighten to a snug fit the 1/8,1/4 or what ever extra.

 

If you gonna use a torque wrench. Get a Digital torque wrench.
Look on the internet for them.
They do both inch lbs and ft lbs

 

I had to tear back down a motor cause I used a harbor freight torque wrench. It was 20 fts off

http://www.checkline.com/torque_wrenches/DTW