Rear Wheel Removal ...Best Way?
#41
I have a bit more of a challenge. I have a side car that I need to deal with. So I am interest in how high the bike needs to be to get the rear wheel out. Are you folks raising the bike so the wheel rolls right out, it doesn't seem like the bike lift would even go high enough for that. Or is a finesse it out back sideways upside down sorta thing?
#45
I have never measured it but I would guess 8"-10" or just enough to clear the rear fender and roll out. When reinstalling the wheel just reverse the process and once the wheel is under the fender you simply lower the lift until the axle hole lines up with the axle. This is really pretty simple if you have a good lift to use. If not, I can see where it could be a little dicey.
#46
To some degree that depends on model, as things like rear pulley width has changed over the years, also brake calipers have. They influence how much wriggle space we have! Having removed the axle and disengaged the belt you can roll the wheel rearwards a little and lift the bike so it clears the rotor or pulley, then slide the wheel out sideways from the bottom.
Retrop sounds to have got that height about right, but it will become obvious as you do it! We can describe it until the cows come home, but doing it is the final learning stage.
Retrop sounds to have got that height about right, but it will become obvious as you do it! We can describe it until the cows come home, but doing it is the final learning stage.
Last edited by grbrown; 12-03-2012 at 04:07 AM.
#47
VERY GOOD POINTS!
Has any one had issues with the brake pads holding on to the brake rotor while taking the back tire off?
I know I have had to compress the piston to get the wheel caliper off to change pads. I would think you need to compress the caliper to allow the pads to be loose enough to release the rotor for dis-assembly. It should be as simple as a small tool between the rotor and the pad to expand the opening by pressing the pads back against the wheel caliper.
I know I have had to compress the piston to get the wheel caliper off to change pads. I would think you need to compress the caliper to allow the pads to be loose enough to release the rotor for dis-assembly. It should be as simple as a small tool between the rotor and the pad to expand the opening by pressing the pads back against the wheel caliper.
#49
I work with machines, and people would be amazed at the safeguards we are required to put in place to deal with operators. Many times a week I ask the question, "really", its just to bad common sense can't be taught...
With the manual my 1st time of rear tire R&R was about 2 hours. Next time it will be quicker I suspect.
#50
[quote=VTL nut;10620575]Thats funny but probably true. Thats from a liability standpoint. Someone probably forgot something once upon a time, fired it up, damaged something or someone, so many tech pubs probably begin with "remove battery cable"..........
Too funny, but how true. What with all the product liability concerns today can you imagine a lawyer writing a comprehensive safety manual for how to have sex?
At least a ten pound manual, twelve if it had pix.
Too funny, but how true. What with all the product liability concerns today can you imagine a lawyer writing a comprehensive safety manual for how to have sex?
At least a ten pound manual, twelve if it had pix.