or try this link for more information
http://www.hotrodsbikeworks.com/tech...ork_component/

 

you need all the tools listed above plus a bike jack and a small cheap jack would be nice to lift the front wheel when re-installing it...but the second jack is not 100% needed.
time factor= a saturday project if you have everything ready..
*****you can do the front brake pads also while the wheel is off

 

the dresser and road king models take a lot of time because you must remove the beer cans above the sliders and these require the removal of the headlight nacelle.
if you take the time to do it yourself...might as well do the brake pads and also grease the neck bearing..both of these are quick since everything else is off.
order the sliders,seals,screws and brake pads thorugh internet and save 20% on parts alone...then throw in the labor and taxes at about $300+ in savings..
this requires a lot of patience, and moderate mechanical skills and you must have the manual.

 

This is why I had chrome lowers installed before I took delivery of my bike. As well as chrome bolts, axel caps and spacers. LOL

 

If you find that the 6 mm bolts are just turning and not coming out . Remove the springs andget a friend to push down on the tubes hard and use an impact . This work every time. Harley dampners are known for being on the spongy side. On my sportster I welded up one of the holes in the dampner rod . This made a huge difference,added progressive springs and the bike handles great ...Mark...PS your sequence for assembly is correct. Make sure that you put the new seals in JUST far enough for the retaining ring, I use a very small amount of thread sealant on the 6mm bolts...

 

Its so easy even a Caveman can do it! OK so I'm not actually a caveman but I play one in my marriage, according to my wife. Just take it by one small step at a time, read everything here and in the manual and save the $$$ for more chrome!

 

I will 2nd the impact wrench idea but I had to cut an allen wrench down and then use a socket and an adapter to make it work but it works and work well. I will also remind you to be POSITIVE that the copper crush gasket is installed on the damper bolt before you torque it down and add fluid. Sucks to go through the entire process only to have a leak because you forgot that little tiny gasket.