i have an 09 Ultra SE, most of my riding is long trips. i am either 2 up, loaded down and sometimes even pull a small trailer. depends on the length of trip.
i have done a fair amount of research and am pretty set on the Fullsac x pipe this winter. i will do the TTS fuel mgmt set up and will put back on my Rhinehart slipons and already have the stage 1 air kit.
what i am looking for is a bit more power in mountains and when passing, but i also want a cooler ride. the heat off my motor and exhaust gets pretty warm.
question is do i need to do the cam? what are others experience?

 

I have a dyna and i never ride 2 up so my situation is much different but i noticed a difference with a cam. I think youre asking if you need to do a cam because of your other mods and the answer is no you dont need to. You would gain power by doing so but its not needed. A good way for you to get the power you need is a big bore kit though, a bigger engine is needed to move so much weight so a big bore kit is a great place to start with getting your engine power where you need it. Also if you run Revolution Performance big bore kits the engine will actually run cooler because of the lining on the cylinder walls and the cylinders being made from Aluminum.
I would do the mods you listed and then see how the bike feels, may be enough power to make you happy. If not then add a big bore kit and cams later to get what you need. I'm sure someone on here could recommend a good cam for your needs.
On a side note most race or high perf cams are mid range to high RPM, the stock cam is low RPM esp on a touring bike. Sounds like you need low end power because you have so much weight so keeping the stock cam isnt a terrible idea. Idk of any cams that are designed for low end power gains on heavier bikes but like i said i ride a dyna so my needs are different.
Sorry for the long winded answer but i hope it helps!

 

To make more power, you have to move more air/fuel through the motor and get the most power out of the air/fuel charge (compression). Increasing displacement is one approach and a good foundation for doing this, but also performance options (intake, cams, exhaust) can increase this flow within a given displacement.

There are cam options available to help on the low end, but increasing torque down low also requires that you keep corrected compression up. This is driven by when then intake closes. The stock cams close at 30 ABDC. The SE 255 is a popular low end cam and it closes at 25. The SE 204 has been very popular over time and it closes around 34. Those cams that close in the 40+ range tend to be the mid range cams that the prior poster mentioned. The only drawback is that they need increased compression to optimize their low-end power. Intake close is not everything, but a key factor. Also bear in mind that with increased corrected compression comes higher cranking pressure and heat.

Your best bet is to narrow down who will be doing your tuning work for you and get their advice. If they are experienced in tuning specific cam profiles, and those meet your needs, that may be the best. Remember, its not just the cam you need, but the right cam tuned properly. The Woods TW-222 just came out and so far I'm happy with it (still getting the tune dialed in). By all means I am not trying to push "what I have is best", but it has a intake close of 34, higher lift, and more overlap than the stock cams to allow the engine to breath a bit more and run a little cooler. The Andrews 26 has been a very popular bagger cam for a while as well, and they have recently introduced the 48 and 57 that may serve your needs.

 

Here are the results of my mods from last winter. I wanted more TQ in the midrange RPMs for passing and riding two up. The Wood TW 6-6 cams boost the low end and especially the mid range passing RPM. I live in the midwest and we don't have any mountains or hills. To me your best option for two up in the mountains with a trailer is a big bore kit (107 ci), cams for the mid range/passing RPM, the TTS, pipes, and X-pipe you mentioned and a dyno tune. The X-pipe will drop the heat some, but the dyno tune is where you will get the big drop in the heat. The heat on my SG after the dyno is insignificant compared to before the dyno. I am installing the X-pipe on my SG this winter.

2009 SG 96 ci: Dyno 90 HP and 101 TQ; Wood Perf TW 6-6 cams; SE roller tappets (Upgrading to Wood Perf Directional Roller Lifters); SE adjustable pushrods; SE Stage 1 intake; Kuryakyn Scarab Air Cleaner Cover (2010); SE St Perf Touring mufflers (2010); and SEST.

 

"2 up, loaded down and pull a small trailer" yes you would benefit greatly with a cam upgrade.
Since you are already doing the Fullsac, why not do the cam they recomend?

 

I have a 2008 Ultra Classic with a 103" Stage 2 upgrade. I do long trips in all types of terrains and do 2 ups occasionally. The 103 kit came with the SE255 cam which I used for about 30,000 miles and just didn't like the torque band. While it does come on in the lower to mid RPM range which is real good, it just runs out real quick. The cam also makes the engine run very hot and gets poor gas mileage (~33-35 mpg) for my driving.

I did a lot of research and settled on the Feuling 574 cam. I am totally impressed with this cam. More power by the feel when you twist the throttle, wider torque band, lowers the oil temperature/engine temp, and I have been getting better gas mileage (38-40 mpg).

While I was in the cam chest, I put in the Feuling adj pushrods, Feuling lifters, Feuling camplate and Feuling hi flow pump. I have higher oil pressure and everything seems much quieter.

here is their web-site
http://www.feulingparts.com

Was very impressed with the technical expertise when talking to Feuling as well.

Good luck

 

Is SGO Harley not running a 110 cubic inch now?

 

yes i have the 110 motor now. it has plenty of power for most situations, but the times i am in the mountains or passing on the 2 lanes i want a bit more power. my bigger goal is to cool down the motor heat and get a little louder. i believe i have the 255 Cam already so not sure another cam is necessary. what is your experience

 

Id get it tuned first, the 110s are capable machines but come deadly lean and timing is a little off stock. Your heat problem will also decrese with a proper tune.

 

Woods TW 555 or TW 6-6 cams would benifit that 110ci, along with a tuner and have it dyno'ed, you would be surprised how well that bike will perform and have significant heat reduction.