If you follow the suggested clutch cable adjustment guidelines that are in the owners manual you could be in trouble.
The clutch adjustment as described is gauged in visually measuring the gap between the cable end up near the lever and the actual lever housing of around 1/8 of an inch.
This could make the cable just a bit too tight if your lever is a little sticky.
Recently I was on a highway run and noticed what seemed to be the clutch slipping in 5th. gear when really getting on it. The speed of the bike wasn't increasing as fast as the engine was climbing.
I loosened the cable just slightly and the problem has gone away.
I just hope while under load in 6th. gear the first half of the day I wasn't harming the clutch plates in any way. ??

Comments please.

 

The clutch adjustment is done at the clutch basket in the primary.

the clutch cable adjustment is done on the cable.

improper cable adjustment can cause the clutch to be held partly disengaged, or fail to engage completely.


adjust the clutch first, the cable second.

clutch cable adjustment is more sensitive since the easy pull clutch mechanism was introduced stock on HD's. the longer lever in the clutch requires a longer travel

mike

 

You make no mention of the adjustment on the clutch hub inside the derby cover. If you haven't been doing that, you have been missing the more important half of the clutch adjustment.

 

All of the adjustments MUST be done COLD.
I adjusted my clutch out just over 1/2 turn, and my cable to a nickel's width. My clutch starts to engage about 1/4-1/2 inch off the grip and no slippage.
The gap in the cable/lever will increase to over 1/4" when the bike is hot.

 

Mike nailed it. You have to pull the inspection cover on the primary to adjust the clutch first. Once that is done properly, then you can adjust the cable. I adjust mine every oil change. (5000 miles)

 

This is the method I use with success, perhaps you'll find it useful:

CLUTCH-PACK ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:

1) Loosen cable slack all the way to the top of adjuster (use 11 & 12mm open wrenches).

2) Remove Derby cover with T27 Torx bit on 4" extension, then loosen Clutch-pack nut with 11/16 socket & turn nut out two turns.

3) With 7/32 Allen wrench turn screw out few turns, then turn in slowly until resistance is felt in the lever (gear engagement point) then turn back 1/2 to 3/4 turns (buffer before gear engages). Not giving it a buffer will leave clutch partially engaged putting excess wear on throw-out bearing! Hold it there with 'T' handle and lock it down with an 11/16 open wrench.
Tech notes:
Backing the clutch pack screw further out than ½ turn will move clutch engagement closer to the bars.

4) Take up slack with cable adjuster till the handle starts to move outward and there' s the 1/8" slack on cable pivot end, then lock it down. If your run the adjuster to the point that you run out of thread make sure your ran adjuster all the way to the top when you began procedure.
Tech notes:
More free-play than 1/16-1/8” at the perch, will also make it grab closer to the bars.

 

A method posted a couple of years ago that works perfectly:

Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" (the width of a nickle works) free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .

Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.

It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.
Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.

If you want the clutch grab a little closer to the bar just back the adjuster screw on the clutch pack out a bit further next time.
Normally the adjustment screw on the clutch is turned out from the closed position 3/4 or maybe a full turn if you want it to start grabbing closer to the handlebar. So, to have it start to grab farther away from the handlebar turn the adjustment screw less than 3/4 of a turn out. In other words, the further out the adjustment screw, the closer to the handlebars it will start to grab.

 

Thanks for the input.
I knew all this already but was just not wanting to pull off the derby cover
Oh, and nice bike by the way.

 

Thanks.
Yet another rider approved method.