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Slipon muffler install question

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  #1  
Old 08-29-2012 | 07:22 AM
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Default Slipon muffler install question

I had a shop install my Jackpot 4" mufflers a few weeks ago and I noticed some air escaping on both sides where the headpipe meets the muffler. I took it back to them and the guy said that's normal because of the slots cut in the slipons. I called Fuelmoto and they recommend Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone to seal them. I have read some posts here that say to use anti-seize also. While taking a closer look at the current installation, I can see some gray residue on the pipe already. I'm going to guess they already added some anti-seize on the pipe and that didn't seal. My question is can you use both an anti-seize and the silicone sealant? Or is one better than the other. I'm more inclined to follow Fuelmoto's recommendation and use the Silicone.
 
  #2  
Old 08-29-2012 | 07:52 AM
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I've always made sure the slip on is mounted past the point of the slot on the head pipe to keep this from happening. Never had a issue or need to use silicone, using a new exhaust clamp wouldn't hurt either.
 
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Old 08-29-2012 | 07:56 AM
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I had some issues getting my Jackpots to seal up good too. IMHO, you shouldn't *need* to use silicone, but it's not a bad idea.

My tip is to make sure you loosen the heat shields so you can really get the pipes fully seated, and make sure the muffler clamps are right up to the end of the muffler (i.e. you can't see any muffler past the clamp). Also, make sure those clamps are nice and tight.

I didn't use silicone nor new clamps. However, in retrospect, given that I did have issues, I would have done both to hopefully avoid some futzing around. That said, I think I've got them all snugged up now...
 
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Old 08-29-2012 | 08:34 AM
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I just installed my Jackpots this weekend and don't have any problems. Used copper anti-sieze and made sure they were tourqued according to the service manual.
 
  #5  
Old 08-29-2012 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by trnewman
I took it back to them and the guy said that's normal because of the slots cut in the slipons.

Are you kidding me! You never want any leaks in your exhaust system where the headers mount to the motor or where the mufflers and headers come together. You risk performance issues with lost of flow, discoloration around the holes and it could cause popping.

It sounds like the muffler is not installed on the header pipe all the way. The muffler brackets below the saddlebags on toward the back are adjustable and can slide. Like mentioned earlier, the heat shield clamps can be loosened and the mufflers can be pushed on further.

I always use copper silicone around the front inside diameter of the muffler connection to help aid in the install and removal if needed and I do believe it does help aid with sealing too. The muffler clamps like also mentioned earlier needs to be placed on and toward the end of the muffler connection and bolted tight. Some after market exhausts will have the torque specs also. If not, factory specs will do.
 

Last edited by MrHog; 08-29-2012 at 10:58 AM.
  #6  
Old 08-29-2012 | 08:53 AM
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+1 on all the info above now if using the Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone, please read the instructions, DON'T start it, and let it set to make sure it cures all the way. been there done that, re doing it sucks!!!
 
  #7  
Old 08-29-2012 | 09:13 AM
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Does the Copper silicone make it easier to get apart? I assumed just the opposite. I use hi temp silicone on pellet stove vent pipes...and its a btch to get them apart. I have to remove mine on my 2000 to change the rear wheel....figured the silicone would make it impossible.
 
  #8  
Old 08-29-2012 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by flhxkiller
I've always made sure the slip on is mounted past the point of the slot on the head pipe to keep this from happening. Never had a issue or need to use silicone, using a new exhaust clamp wouldn't hurt either.
Originally Posted by plutnicki
I had some issues getting my Jackpots to seal up good too. IMHO, you shouldn't *need* to use silicone, but it's not a bad idea.

My tip is to make sure you loosen the heat shields so you can really get the pipes fully seated, and make sure the muffler clamps are right up to the end of the muffler (i.e. you can't see any muffler past the clamp). Also, make sure those clamps are nice and tight.

I didn't use silicone nor new clamps. However, in retrospect, given that I did have issues, I would have done both to hopefully avoid some futzing around. That said, I think I've got them all snugged up now...
If the mufflers were installed correctly they would have been slid on past the slots! ALSO, new clamps should have been used! This crap about it's a common issue is BS! Proper installation with new clamps is the correct way to install replacement mufflers. Sounds like the shop doing the work did a poor job. For a job this simple, I doubt that I would ever go back to use them for ANYTHING!
 
  #9  
Old 08-29-2012 | 10:20 AM
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Well, in my case, I did the install myself, so I really only have myself to blame. I'd yell at myself, but it wouldn't do any good, since I still need me to do more work...
 
  #10  
Old 08-29-2012 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mikkeeh
Does the Copper silicone make it easier to get apart? I assumed just the opposite. I use hi temp silicone on pellet stove vent pipes...and its a btch to get them apart. I have to remove mine on my 2000 to change the rear wheel....figured the silicone would make it impossible.
I'm interested in this answer also. If so, then no need for anti-seize. Thanks to everyone for their responses. I am going to try to fix this issue myself but need to get some torque wrenches.

I originally had the intent to install these along with my header myself, but at the last minute decided against it. The head pipe looked like it would be a b**ch to get off.
 


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