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120 crate motor or build a 117"

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  #1  
Old 08-17-2012 | 08:25 AM
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cruzmisl
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Default 120 crate motor or build a 117"

Hi All,

Trying to get a new bike in the works but can't ride a stock one after running a 107" with stage 2 heads. I want to get another RKC and immediately do the motor BUT I'm having some difficulty figuring out which way to go.

I was originally going to have the original motor built which includes the usual crank work, timken, boring for the bigger pistons etc. Then add a set of RP pistons/jugs, have the heads done, HPI TB etc. I'd do all the assembly myself. I hadn't priced it out but I'm thinking $2K for the bottom end (have them assemble that), $1K for headwork, $1K for pistons/jugs, $600 cams/lifters/pushrods. Adds up to $5k real quick.

I've been reading about the 120R crate motor. They're cheap, make really good power and I can drop it in without any worry about proper assembly etc. I know it's not going to be as bulletproof as a built motor, I also understand the components are not as high quality as a built motor but 130HP is 130HP. Its on a Road King not a drag bike so while the built motor has the potential to be "bulletproof" is it really necessary? I can also sell the stock motor to try and pay for the add ons both routes will need like headers, TB, clutch.

Just looking for some different ideas or thoughts.

Thanks!
J.
 
  #2  
Old 08-17-2012 | 08:50 AM
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this may be a better choice; comes with a 1 year warranty -- call Derek at Star Racing for more details.



NEW 124" REPLACEMENT ENGINE FROM S&S CYCLE

FOR 2007-UP HARLEY-DAVIDSON® MOTORCYCLES

Fits Dyna, Touring & Softail Models

The 2007-Up Twin Cam complete T-Series engines are available for both Alpha and Beta applications* in black powdercoat only.

Engines are fully assembled up to the intake port face, therefore customers will need to purchase a stock length intake manifold and air cleaner to complete the installation of the hard parts.

Engines feature chrome rocker boxes, tappet covers and cam cover.

Click for more information and pricing. Photos coming soon!
 
  #3  
Old 08-17-2012 | 09:26 AM
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Found there web site by luck and called about there 111 s&s for magnelly morrely thing comes with every thing throtle body tuner the works cheaper than the 120 but u dont have to purchase all the other parts .and a 2 year waranty
 
  #4  
Old 08-17-2012 | 01:11 PM
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when I purchased my S&S T-111 it came with a three year unlimited mileage warranty -- there is a shop in NC Bethany Garage -- that has them for a very resonable price -- they are not as fast as the 120r / 124 but if looking for longevity and more than adequate power it might be the motor for you
 
  #5  
Old 08-17-2012 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cruzmisl
Hi All,

Trying to get a new bike in the works but can't ride a stock one after running a 107" with stage 2 heads. I want to get another RKC and immediately do the motor BUT I'm having some difficulty figuring out which way to go.

I was originally going to have the original motor built which includes the usual crank work, timken, boring for the bigger pistons etc. Then add a set of RP pistons/jugs, have the heads done, HPI TB etc. I'd do all the assembly myself. I hadn't priced it out but I'm thinking $2K for the bottom end (have them assemble that), $1K for headwork, $1K for pistons/jugs, $600 cams/lifters/pushrods. Adds up to $5k real quick.

I've been reading about the 120R crate motor. They're cheap, make really good power and I can drop it in without any worry about proper assembly etc. I know it's not going to be as bulletproof as a built motor, I also understand the components are not as high quality as a built motor but 130HP is 130HP. Its on a Road King not a drag bike so while the built motor has the potential to be "bulletproof" is it really necessary? I can also sell the stock motor to try and pay for the add ons both routes will need like headers, TB, clutch.

Just looking for some different ideas or thoughts.

Thanks!
J.
You can see in my sig that I did a 117" and most of the parts are listed. I would go this route before doing a 120r crate motor. If I went the 120r route I would get the kit and build it from there but by the time you did the bottom end and throttle body, heads, cams etc it will cost as much as a good 117" build. My bike run nice and cool and is very streetable. I have a dyno sheet and it is making 115 ft/lbs at 2200 rpm and goes up from there. It pulls like a truck yet is very mild manered. I have taken it on a long trip loaded two up and it is very smooth and I believe reliable. I could have gone with a T-Man 660 cam and made a huge amount of power but went 625 to keep it real. I haad a set of 110 SE heads done by Dan Vance Racing and this thing breathes!! The Rev Perf cylinders and pistons are the bomb! This bike runs cooler than the 95" build I had before.
 
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2012 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bigirn
Found there web site by luck and called about there 111 s&s for magnelly morrely thing comes with every thing throtle body tuner the works cheaper than the 120 but u dont have to purchase all the other parts .and a 2 year waranty
Will it fit in a 09 frame?
 
  #7  
Old 08-17-2012 | 04:03 PM
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no; but they (S&S) have a 124 that will -- it is $6200 or less with almost everything you need and a warranty
Originally Posted by spiker
Will it fit in a 09 frame?
 
  #8  
Old 08-17-2012 | 04:24 PM
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As in my sig, I went with a built 117. It has been flawless and with great power. However, I think if I did it again , I think it would be cost effective to go for the crate motor with some better cams. I paid a premium price for a great shop to do mine!
 
  #9  
Old 08-17-2012 | 09:18 PM
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+1 I agree with your post. I went the 117" route four years ago on my FXDL. This was way before the 120R option. Was pretty expensive, but I got great results. Awesome performance and very streetable and reliable.



Originally Posted by mike_oh
You can see in my sig that I did a 117" and most of the parts are listed. I would go this route before doing a 120r crate motor. If I went the 120r route I would get the kit and build it from there but by the time you did the bottom end and throttle body, heads, cams etc it will cost as much as a good 117" build. My bike run nice and cool and is very streetable. I have a dyno sheet and it is making 115 ft/lbs at 2200 rpm and goes up from there. It pulls like a truck yet is very mild manered. I have taken it on a long trip loaded two up and it is very smooth and I believe reliable. I could have gone with a T-Man 660 cam and made a huge amount of power but went 625 to keep it real. I haad a set of 110 SE heads done by Dan Vance Racing and this thing breathes!! The Rev Perf cylinders and pistons are the bomb! This bike runs cooler than the 95" build I had before.
 
  #10  
Old 08-17-2012 | 09:34 PM
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Anyone know what a 117" would cost from a good builder?
 


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