Will do it in the morning....Thanks!

 

Did you install an equalizer or signal stabilizer with the LED turn signals. If not that could be contributing to the issue.

 

No, didn't install an equalizer but didn't think I needed it when the lights worked OK. I cleared the codes and will try and get a ride in before the rains come. Hate a wet ***!

 

I found this: TSM/TSSM Overview These are for older models bikes, but may still have some value.
It has a few additional links within it located on page 22.

TROUBLESHOOTING
Problems fall into at least one of four categories:
●
Turn signal malfunction.
●
Bank angle (engine disable).
●
Security lamp problem.
●
Security system malfunction (TSSM only).


NOTES
● See Figure 3-7. “Key ON” means that the ignition key is
turned to IGNITION and the engine stop switch is set to
RUN (although the engine is not running).
● If the security lamp is not illuminated at Key ON or if it
fails to turn OFF after the initial four second period, the
speedometer may need to be replaced. See 3.10
SPEEDOMETER SELF DIAGNOSTICS. If “BUS Er” is
displayed on the odometer, it may take up to twenty seconds
for the security lamp to illuminate.
● The security lamp will also light for eight seconds after
the bulb check if historic DTCs are present. The security
lamp will stay on if current DTCs are set. If a historic DTC
is present, the security lamp will light for 50 ignition
cycles or until the DTC is cleared manually.
1. See Figure 3-8. When the ignition key is turned ON, the
security lamp will illuminate for approximately four seconds
and then turn off.
2. See Figure 3-9. After the lamp turns off after being illuminated
for the first four second period, one of three events
may occur:
a. The lamp remains off. This indicates there are no
current fault conditions or stored historic DTCs currently
detected by the TSM/TSSM.
b. The lamp stays off for only four seconds and then
comes back on for an eight-second period. This indicates
a historic DTC is stored, but no current DTC
exists.
c. If the lamp remains on beyond the eight-second
period, a current DTC exists.

 

Jerry see if this helps you

Turn Signal Errors

 

+1 on the load equalizer. You've got to have one installed for the security light to turn off. This is a known problem and that's why they began making these things. Good luck!

 

Your code is related to the ECM, I can't find exactly what it is.

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

Maybe you need that LED adapter thing for low voltage. Low voltage LEDs will cause your turn signals to flash double quick, maybe your ECM thinks the double speed is caused by something else. If you already have one maybe it is not connected properly or is bad altogether.

 

The turn signals flash at double the normal speed....front and rear

jj....i used the flow chart for turn( error code 3A) signals. everything is working OK....I think it may need a equalizer. It all started when I went to LEDs front and rear. May just go back to stock bulbs or change out the fronts and see what happens.

The turns signal start slow and then go rapid?????

 

Got the b1121 and 1122 code just moving the bike out of the driveway I had cleared them last night.

Going to the shop and pick up a load equalizer.

 

I hope it works for you.

Re-reading this thread I see I neglected to input my own problem.

The red key indicator comes on for 4 seconds, goes out for 4 seconds then comes on and stays on which indicates a current DTC error code. I have confirmed it is current because it keeps coming back after I clear it.

The cruise control will not work when the red key light is off, as soon as it comes on the cruise control starts to work. I get an S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module) error code of B1154, and part number 68924-07 which is the system security module.

The error code is not listed anywhere I can find, but googling it tells me it is a meaningless code you get when you hold the clutch in too long while riding down the road, as in coasting down a hill with the clutch in. I haven't done that so that is not the problem. Also it affects the cruise control so there is a real problem somewhere.

After I clear the code it comes back within a couple miles and everything seems to work okay that way, I'm a little concerned the bike may shut down and not even the bypass code will get it running again. It looks like I may need a new Security Module.

These problems started when I pulled the maxi fuse to work on my radio and amp. I'm wondering if the module is really bad or if maybe re-marrying it to the ECM will fix it. I haven't tried that yet, I'm not sure if it would be necessary but I'm not looking forward to paying the dealer to remarry the FOBs to the module.