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2010 transmission problems

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  #11  
Old 07-04-2012 | 12:19 AM
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beagle01
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From: Brisbane, Australia
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Originally Posted by RicD13
There has been a trans problem all you have to do is search for in on the forums. There was even a Service Bulletin M-1284 that changes the belt tension. This is a cut from it.

Table 1. Drive Belt Deflection Specifications Change: 2009 and Later Touring Models
MODELS PREVIOUS (Typical) NEW
in mm in mm
FLHX, FLTRX 1/4-5/16 6.4-7.9 1/4-7/16 6.4-11.1

All Other Touring Models 3/8-7/16 9.5-11.1 3/8-9/16 9.5-14.3

From what I can tell from reading and from experiance alot of people have had the issue when running SYN-3. If you pull the trans clutch acttivator cover on the right side of the trans and see gray sludge or metal fileings then you will know you have a main drive gear bearing problem. Some of the ones not having problems are running 75w-140, 85w-140 synthetic gear oil any brand but the MOCO oil.
Thank you for that info. It goes in for the 16K Kilometer (10K mile) service soon. I'll get them to check it. The primary/ clutch side has developed a rattle as well, so the other side cover has to come off too. I just need the fault noted in writing, so if it goes bang shortly out of warranty I can hit them up.
 
  #12  
Old 07-04-2012 | 01:47 AM
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I have had 2 inner primary bearings changed under warranty. I was told the bearings were defective.
 
  #13  
Old 07-04-2012 | 02:56 AM
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From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
it has happened, sometimes a results of improper drive belt tension
Are you sure most people understand the setting of the drive belt tension?
When we apply the tension gage against the belt, the belt naturally sags by gravity and needs to move upwards by 1/16" to 1/8" to start compressing/moving the spring of the gage. Applying the load of 10 lbs is easy and so is measuring 3/8" deflection (three notches on the window of the lower belt cover). But where/when do you start measuring this deflection?
If you consider the complete deflection of the belt as you apply the gage, the belt is set too tight; if you compensate sag with one finger then apply the preload of the gage, the belt is less tensioned.
I would suggest having two lines on the gage:
- one line to preload and set the starting point of the measurement
- the second line (10lbs) as we have now.

While riding next to something solid I could hear a whine coming from the left side when the bike was new and discovered my belt was way too loose!
I set the belt twice as described above: according to the manual it became very tight and by compensating the initial sag it seems to be fine. The increase of load on the transmission and clutch bearings between these two belt settings becomes enormous when you take into account the expansion of the rear pulley as it heats up.
 

Last edited by Expat1; 07-04-2012 at 03:08 AM.
  #14  
Old 07-04-2012 | 01:53 PM
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Her is the service Bulletin in JPG
 
Attached Thumbnails 2010 transmission problems-m1284-page-001.jpg   2010 transmission problems-m1284-page-002.jpg  
  #15  
Old 08-09-2012 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Expat1
Are you sure most people understand the setting of the drive belt tension?
When we apply the tension gage against the belt, the belt naturally sags by gravity and needs to move upwards by 1/16" to 1/8" to start compressing/moving the spring of the gage. Applying the load of 10 lbs is easy and so is measuring 3/8" deflection (three notches on the window of the lower belt cover). But where/when do you start measuring this deflection?
If you consider the complete deflection of the belt as you apply the gage, the belt is set too tight; if you compensate sag with one finger then apply the preload of the gage, the belt is less tensioned.
I would suggest having two lines on the gage:
- one line to preload and set the starting point of the measurement
- the second line (10lbs) as we have now.

While riding next to something solid I could hear a whine coming from the left side when the bike was new and discovered my belt was way too loose!
I set the belt twice as described above: according to the manual it became very tight and by compensating the initial sag it seems to be fine. The increase of load on the transmission and clutch bearings between these two belt settings becomes enormous when you take into account the expansion of the rear pulley as it heats up.

I don't quite understand how you are compensating for initial sag. (The one finger method?) Can you please elaborate a little? Thanks
 
  #16  
Old 08-09-2012 | 09:54 AM
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Trek
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From: Spokane Valley, Washington State
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Originally Posted by raiderz1
has anyone had any problems with the bearings going out?
Yes. In my case, it was because the compensator failed and the automatic primary ajustor continued taking up the slack as the compensator became more worn which put a ton of pressure on the main bearings on the tranny.

Changed the compensator to the SE version and replaced the tranny bearings and all was fine for another 25000 miles.

Though now, I have also upgraded to the Baker DD7 tranny. Just cause I wanted one.
 
  #17  
Old 08-09-2012 | 01:39 PM
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From: Glendale AZ
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Originally Posted by cellexjohn
I had a bearing fail over Memorial Day weekend. I was 200 miles from home in Louisville KY. I noticed it was whining loudly when downshifting. It would get really loud in first gear with the clutch in. Dealer said they have seen one the week before. I thought he said it was behind the clutch.. I don't remember exactly which bearing it was.. My dealer came that night at 11 pm and got my bike and brought me one to borrow for the rest of the 3 day weekend! Pretty awesome!

2010 Street Glide. Had 31,400 at time of fail.
Now that's what a dealership should be......sadly, very rare.
 
  #18  
Old 08-09-2012 | 03:51 PM
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From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
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Originally Posted by Rickr01
I don't quite understand how you are compensating for initial sag. (The one finger method?) Can you please elaborate a little? Thanks
I will try to clarify ...
Either too loose or too tight the belt produces a particular 'sound'. The sound completely disappears when I slightly pre-tension the belt (in the upwards direction) before applying the 10 lbs force to verify belt deflection with the gage.
The bike is cold now (it's 10:30PM) and I observed 1/8" total sag.
 
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