Is there any bindingon the ballwhen making sharp turnswile pulling your trailers. The reason ,I have designed a hitch . It,s posted in the project room all ideas help or critic would be appreciated.

 

I have not had that problem. I have pulled a trailer behind a dresser for many years. I have used a standard 1 7/8 ball. I am currently pulling a Bushtec Trailer and use thier hitch system. It has a pin on the buke and the trailer has a swivel coupling that goes on the pin.

 

No problem,just have to learn that its behind your when going into corner or laneposition.Gotta stay more toward ctr of lane your in to keep it out of on coming traffics side of road.

 

i run the tongue weight at about 18 lbs. if you get over 20lbs the front seems to get squirley.

 

Pulled one for many years behind my Gold Wing with no trouble. I have only pulled it about 1,000 miles behind the Street Glide. Can not say I noticed any difference between the two. Like said above, you just have to remember it is there when turning & passing.

Ride Safe,

Mike

 

A properly designed trailer is either the same width as most baggers, or so marginally wider as to make it a non-issue. As others have mentioned, ya DO hafta remember it's back there when changin' lanes an' such, but that's it. Trailers with leaf/coil springs will give you a LOT of bounce. We've pulled a Bushtec (www.bushtec.com/) since '99 - about 50,000 miles so far on it, an' it'll tag right along. The key w/them is the hitch an' suspension. They use what's called a "heim joint" - very similar to a ball joint arrangement, affordin' complete range of movement with no binding. They demo the suspension by raisin' the trailer 2-3 feet in the air an' droppin' it. There's NO bounce - the trailer just settles on down, thanks to their air system!!

One other thing - iffen it wuz me, ah would NOT wire straight ta the bike harness - it's a good way ta fry it in case of a problem! Bushtec (and others) have a wiring isolator available that'll use the signals from the main harness ta "fire" dedicated relays to send the actual signals to the trailer. The isolator pulls the power from a fused link direct to the battery - so if thar's a problem, yer isolator keeps it off yer main harness.

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How much weight can you but in one of those?

 

They're rated fer 'bout 200-225 lbs payload, dependin' on the model.

 

I got now. I will dump the design but set it up for a receive. The isolator question wasanswered thanks for your time if your ever in N M area Pm me your welcome.

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Glad someone brought up some awareness on pulling trailers. However, there is a subject I haven't seen yet in here and I feel is extremely important! God forbid it ever happens, tho it has and the results killed 2 people!

I'm referring to getting a flat tire on your trailer while in motion and loaded!

My trailer has torsion bar suspension. No straight axle and it has a habit of goin weird on one side or the other when I hit pavemant that isn't equal to what the other tire may be on. Also,... big azz trucks cause turbulance and the worst case would be a blow-out!

Just to be safe,... for me,... I added an anti sway device to my trailer hitch and the trailer as well. Both tires can fall off and that trailer will still stay true. The trailer I have, can be seen below. I also tied an extra bike battery in parralelle with the n bike's battery anbd placed it in the trailer. The isolator is a very good idea also.





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