If nothin else go to bitchin baggers and have them lower your rear shocks for 175 bucks. It'll ride a helluva lot better than with the lowering blocks. +1 on the 2012 with a budget though.

 

I just installed a 21/18 combo. I was running some numbers to see how much I need to lower mine to get it around were it was before I did the swap. In my case the stock metzeler front tire was a 130/90/16 = 25.212" diameter. The new 120/70/21 =27.614" diameter. The difference of the two is 2.402" Half of that is 1.201" so the front went up 1.201". So, on paper you only need to lower the front 1" to be close to stock height if you went to a 21" only. Hope this helps.

 

The factory shocks are CRAP.. Chuck them in the trash where they belong. Ohlins or Progressive 940's at a minimum.

 

Thanks much. I am heading over to the dealer at lunch. They have a new UC with the same front wheel and the front end lowered. I pulled the saddlebag yesterday and there was no lowering block. The service rep said they probably put the lower shocks on the rear. I will have him look up the bike's stock number to see exactly what they did. The more I here from you guys the more I think I don't need to lower the rear.

 

Personally, I like to have the rear set lower then the front.

 

Went to the dealership at lunch and the service rep pulled up the stock number on the Ultra Classic. It had the profile low rear shocks installed along with the lowered front end. I was still at the service counter, arguing my position that I didn't think the rear had to be lowered. One of their master techs, Brock, came out and I just asked him. He said I was right, the rear did not need to be lowered. Now I can save my money and maybe get some Ohlins for the rear; who knows, after I ride if for a while I might want the rear to be a little lower.

Thanks for all your input.

 

Hey not denying that but he said budget and lower so I said bitchin bagger. Myself... I'm thinkin arnott air ride or ohlins. Not sure which as of yet.