Msrp
#11
06-21-2012, 08:18 AM
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#12
06-21-2012, 09:08 AM
#13
06-21-2012, 09:23 AM
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Al
#14
06-21-2012, 10:08 AM
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I've been buying bikes at $1000.00 to $1500.00 off of MSRP with another $500.00 to $1000.00 in Gift Cards included for accessories. I can't imagine, nor would I ever, paying MSRP.
If you can wait, always try to buy at the very end of the month. Also, if you can wait, hold off until the new model year release, and then deal on a then one model year old bike. Whether it be cars or bikes, the last couple of days of the month are when the sales dept. can be the most pliable. Usually, they have sales goals or sales contests running and if, at the end of the month, they're just a bike or two short then they'll more inclined to "give one away" in order to hit the sales goal. At the end of a hot busy Saturday is a nice time to deal too, at the end of the month, never underestimate the power of fatigue.
Never forget that when you're dealing with the salesperson, you are actually dealing with the sales manager who's usually out of sight or keeping a low profile. The salesperson is only the manager's mouthpiece, they cannot "desk a deal" on their own. Also remember, it is the salesperson's primary job to present ALL offers to the manager, ALL offers. In most dealerships the sales staff gets paid a "flat" commission which ranges typically from $100.00 to $200.00 per unit irregardless of final purchase price. I use the term unit instead of car or bike because to them, especially the managers, that is all they are; they don't get all passionate like the TV commercials; it's strictly business, moving units. An old sales tip: When you place your offer, shut-up, the one who speaks next/first usually loses.
Don't be afraid to walk out the first time or two. If they're any good at all, as sales staff, they will have secured your contact info and will never let more than three days go buy, after you walked out, before they contact you. That's if they care about, and want, your business; although, some salespersons are truly lazy and live off of the showroom floor instead of working their customer and prospect base; in which case, if they have the bike you really want then you'll have to re-contact, but try to find a better salesperson.
In any dealership, automotive or motorcycle, it is the service dept. that is the main profit generator, the heartbeat of the dealership. But, when it comes to sales of either new or used "units", it is the "F&I guy" aka the business manager that generates the most profit. They make more on the "backside of the deal" than off of selling price in all but the rarest of cases. They really don't like to hear the words "cash deal" or "I've arranged financing at my bank/credit union" because then they can't make any money off of you. Unless, they can get you to buy one of their programs such as warranties or insurance. Just be very aware of their wares when you're in the lair of the business manager. Myself, I always use my 6% rule. If I can get financing, preferably at my bank, for well under 6% then I'll go ahead and "use their money" while keeping mine in my financial plan that returns far more than a 6%. But, if I can't get under 6%, then I'll pay cash. That's just me, but sometimes it really is dumb to pay cash when your money can be earning/working more for you elsewhere.
Anyways, I could go on and on but just know that where I live, no one pays MSRP. Oh, I suppose there are a few exceptions, but in their case John Wayne said it best, “Life's hard. It's even harder when you're stupid.”
Good luck my friend.
If you can wait, always try to buy at the very end of the month. Also, if you can wait, hold off until the new model year release, and then deal on a then one model year old bike. Whether it be cars or bikes, the last couple of days of the month are when the sales dept. can be the most pliable. Usually, they have sales goals or sales contests running and if, at the end of the month, they're just a bike or two short then they'll more inclined to "give one away" in order to hit the sales goal. At the end of a hot busy Saturday is a nice time to deal too, at the end of the month, never underestimate the power of fatigue.
Never forget that when you're dealing with the salesperson, you are actually dealing with the sales manager who's usually out of sight or keeping a low profile. The salesperson is only the manager's mouthpiece, they cannot "desk a deal" on their own. Also remember, it is the salesperson's primary job to present ALL offers to the manager, ALL offers. In most dealerships the sales staff gets paid a "flat" commission which ranges typically from $100.00 to $200.00 per unit irregardless of final purchase price. I use the term unit instead of car or bike because to them, especially the managers, that is all they are; they don't get all passionate like the TV commercials; it's strictly business, moving units. An old sales tip: When you place your offer, shut-up, the one who speaks next/first usually loses.
Don't be afraid to walk out the first time or two. If they're any good at all, as sales staff, they will have secured your contact info and will never let more than three days go buy, after you walked out, before they contact you. That's if they care about, and want, your business; although, some salespersons are truly lazy and live off of the showroom floor instead of working their customer and prospect base; in which case, if they have the bike you really want then you'll have to re-contact, but try to find a better salesperson.
In any dealership, automotive or motorcycle, it is the service dept. that is the main profit generator, the heartbeat of the dealership. But, when it comes to sales of either new or used "units", it is the "F&I guy" aka the business manager that generates the most profit. They make more on the "backside of the deal" than off of selling price in all but the rarest of cases. They really don't like to hear the words "cash deal" or "I've arranged financing at my bank/credit union" because then they can't make any money off of you. Unless, they can get you to buy one of their programs such as warranties or insurance. Just be very aware of their wares when you're in the lair of the business manager. Myself, I always use my 6% rule. If I can get financing, preferably at my bank, for well under 6% then I'll go ahead and "use their money" while keeping mine in my financial plan that returns far more than a 6%. But, if I can't get under 6%, then I'll pay cash. That's just me, but sometimes it really is dumb to pay cash when your money can be earning/working more for you elsewhere.
Anyways, I could go on and on but just know that where I live, no one pays MSRP. Oh, I suppose there are a few exceptions, but in their case John Wayne said it best, “Life's hard. It's even harder when you're stupid.”
Good luck my friend.
Last edited by Sweetbaboo; 06-21-2012 at 10:20 AM.
#18
06-21-2012, 10:41 AM
I don't know about the States around NH, but some States will charge you their sales tax when you register, or the difference if higher. When I moved from Missouri to Oklahoma I had just bought a car. Oklahoma's tax was higher than the State I bought the car in (MO), and charged me the difference when I registered it.
#19
06-21-2012, 10:42 AM
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When a trade is involved, really then the only number that matters is "the difference" no matter how they arrived at it. That said, the bigger the trade number, on the purchase contract, the less sales tax you pay. At least that's how it is in my state. Tax is calculated on the difference/final purchase number. So, I always take the trade offer and add the tax to it in order to assess the "tax advantage" of trading.
Enjoy the new bike man!
#20
06-21-2012, 10:45 AM
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