Another trailering question,please,no pussy jokes.
#21
Thanks for all the great info. I did get the better chock from HF,tried it out in the garage and it worked great. I had read previous posts about the adjustment and went with the third hole back. Would I need to bolt the chock through a crossmember or use a backing plate under the floor,or would lag bolts into the floor be sufficient?
#22
Soos is right about being ahead of the axle. In an enclosed trailer I once had I built a box in the angled nose. It gave me a place to keep the tie down gear & tools. It also gave a solid partition to butt the wheel chock against. The bikes still rode a little ahead of the axle & the trailer was very stable during towing. Also consider a tongue wheel & a jack under the rear of the trailer for loading/unloading without being hitched. It'll be handy.
A friend of mine once decided to "help" and unhook the truck while I was backing out my Sporty. That was a wild ride.
#23
I have the condor in mine. it works very well. pulls like a dream. great for road rescue, or a haul to daytona. I ts perfect for running drag. I call it the bike ambulance . And all the guys that rag about trailers must push there's when it breaks down, and yes they do break
Last edited by foxrod89; 06-17-2012 at 09:23 PM.
#24
The absolute standard for a single axle trailer is to have 60% of the load ahead of the axle line. If not the trailer will sway especially down hill and with a semi passing. It can be quite fun. Do not hit the brakes in this situation. Add throttle.
I have been pulling many trailers since the 60's. There is a lot of needed skills for towing. Use the safety chains, cross them and twist to be sure they don't drag the ground but not too short so they won't be tight when turning. You cross them so that should the trailer come off the ball, they will hold up the tongue off the road so it will not catch a pot hole or raised edge and try to act like a pole vaulter.
Pin or paddle lock the lever that holds the tongue to the ball so that it will not come off of the ball.
Always keep in mind the the trailer will follow a tighter line around the curve. So keep the tow vehicle closer to the outside.
Check the lug nuts ( usually 90 ft lbs) before you start and about every 100 miles. Actual recommendations are more often. Of course check the tire pressure before starting. I always carry two spares, 12V air compressor and a lug wrench.
When I pull anything larger than a single axle 6 X 12 I will use a load equalizing hitch and sway bars.
If you are not too experienced in backing go to an empty parking lot and practice.
If there is not trailer brakes on the trailer. Be sure to let off the gas sooner as you approach a stop intersection. The tow vehicle with trailer will take a longer distance to stop.
Don't use cruise control while towing. Do not brake strongly. Look and drive further ahead and anticipate more of what can happen ahead.
A trailer does not just follow you. It can push you, pull the tow vehicle rear out of line and cause a lot of trouble.
Enjoy you new toy hauler.
I have been pulling many trailers since the 60's. There is a lot of needed skills for towing. Use the safety chains, cross them and twist to be sure they don't drag the ground but not too short so they won't be tight when turning. You cross them so that should the trailer come off the ball, they will hold up the tongue off the road so it will not catch a pot hole or raised edge and try to act like a pole vaulter.
Pin or paddle lock the lever that holds the tongue to the ball so that it will not come off of the ball.
Always keep in mind the the trailer will follow a tighter line around the curve. So keep the tow vehicle closer to the outside.
Check the lug nuts ( usually 90 ft lbs) before you start and about every 100 miles. Actual recommendations are more often. Of course check the tire pressure before starting. I always carry two spares, 12V air compressor and a lug wrench.
When I pull anything larger than a single axle 6 X 12 I will use a load equalizing hitch and sway bars.
If you are not too experienced in backing go to an empty parking lot and practice.
If there is not trailer brakes on the trailer. Be sure to let off the gas sooner as you approach a stop intersection. The tow vehicle with trailer will take a longer distance to stop.
Don't use cruise control while towing. Do not brake strongly. Look and drive further ahead and anticipate more of what can happen ahead.
A trailer does not just follow you. It can push you, pull the tow vehicle rear out of line and cause a lot of trouble.
Enjoy you new toy hauler.
#25
As stated, forward of the axels. I had a 7X14 enclosed, mounted my HF wheel chock in a straight line with the front of the side door opening, worked great,no dog wagging it's tail...pulled great.
Also, tie of the rear of the bike, I pulled a RG from KY to TX...when I checked the first time the bike had moved within 3inches of the side of the trailer...almost hit the saddlebag...might have been the vynal tile flooring, slick. But anymore I tie the rear too....not to much as to pull the bike back, but enough to keep it from moving into contact with the side of the trailer....couple of eye bolts in the rear of the trailer worked for me.
Pratice with an empty trailer, backing and cornering....school parking lots are good places for that...
Be safe
Also, tie of the rear of the bike, I pulled a RG from KY to TX...when I checked the first time the bike had moved within 3inches of the side of the trailer...almost hit the saddlebag...might have been the vynal tile flooring, slick. But anymore I tie the rear too....not to much as to pull the bike back, but enough to keep it from moving into contact with the side of the trailer....couple of eye bolts in the rear of the trailer worked for me.
Pratice with an empty trailer, backing and cornering....school parking lots are good places for that...
Be safe
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PFR-Captain
Hacked, Conversions and Trailering
3
09-18-2013 09:08 PM