Oil Spitting Out of Air Filter
#102
iwillfixthem4u...How's the filter doing so far with blow-by and oil drip in and around the breather bolts and Throttle body I'm real close to ordering the KN?
#103
TUCCI as posted last night,after riding hard in the twisties yesterday for 300 miles there was no leak. Maybe to soon to tell. Power was increased in mid range and smoother through out.
#104
#106
I got it yestersay and installed it. I have some great pictures that would clear up a lot, but I have never posted pics here. If someone could give me a quick lesson that would be great.. the air filter itself has two ruber plugs built in to it that when seated seal the two wells over the vent screws. The backing plate has passages that exit into the throttle area (not the face like the Harley SE) Then the rubber vilosity piece matches up with the two holes at the inside point, deep into the throttle area. I will ride it on Saturday and report back. I would be happy to post pics of the installation. I'm not sure if it will work, but like what I see so far and trust K&N to do what they say.
#107
Alright so I'm tired of this issue so I decided to take my SS Stealth and experiment with copper tubing. Figured if I screw it up, that would make my mind up to buy the KN model discussed in previous posts. This is the kit I have:
Because of the close proximity of the breather tunnels and the cone diverter cover, It required long sweeping curves.
I routed the tubing as far into the TB I could and still allow the flap movement. It's not as clean as some of the other prototypes, but the SE and AN breathers had more space between the tunnels....mine was maybe 1" tops.
The JB weld should hold everything together and the crisscross design holds it in place. After discussing the JB cement reliability with two other members, I confirmed cement integrity by using my Milwaukee 1200watt heat gun on a test sample. The test sample was a metal rod applicator I used to stir the mixture. I put the heat on it long enough for it to get so hot it went from gray to almost black and never melted or lost integrity. Hot enough that it should hold up just fine.
Because of the close proximity of the breather tunnels and the cone diverter cover, It required long sweeping curves.
I routed the tubing as far into the TB I could and still allow the flap movement. It's not as clean as some of the other prototypes, but the SE and AN breathers had more space between the tunnels....mine was maybe 1" tops.
The JB weld should hold everything together and the crisscross design holds it in place. After discussing the JB cement reliability with two other members, I confirmed cement integrity by using my Milwaukee 1200watt heat gun on a test sample. The test sample was a metal rod applicator I used to stir the mixture. I put the heat on it long enough for it to get so hot it went from gray to almost black and never melted or lost integrity. Hot enough that it should hold up just fine.
Last edited by TUCCI; 08-08-2012 at 01:03 PM.
#108
#109
Tucci... Keep an eye on the JBWeld. That's why I soldered mine - I'm not sure I'd trust JBWeld in this application. Epoxies can be brittle. In a high vibration environment I'd select something a little more flexible. Add to that the fuel and oil mists the epoxy will be subjected to that will cause degradation over time. I don't think epoxy is robust enough in this application for complete peace-of-mind, from my perspective anyway.
Solder it once and it will last forever. Epoxy (or any adhesive), I'm not so sure.
You sure don't want to risk ingesting any of your fix into the engine.
Solder it once and it will last forever. Epoxy (or any adhesive), I'm not so sure.
You sure don't want to risk ingesting any of your fix into the engine.
Last edited by 2black1s; 08-07-2012 at 04:35 PM.
#110