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Clutch cable ran out of adjustment? What gives?

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  #51  
Old 08-04-2018, 12:55 PM
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Adjusting the rod at the clutch pack affects where in the lever pull the clutch engages or disengages. Clutch cables have two adjustments (one about halfway down the cable from the handle bars. The other at the lever) Major slack uptake is adjusted by the adjustor midway on the cable. Fine tune with the adjuster at the lever.
 
  #52  
Old 03-21-2021, 08:44 AM
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I'm reading this post because this just happened to me! Same exact issue!
 
  #53  
Old 03-21-2021, 09:11 AM
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Read Mertoid's thread slowly, simple fix, takes about 10 min to get all of the slack out.
 
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  #54  
Old 04-26-2021, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mertoid
Before you replace the cable or add a spacer, try this;


"Loosen cable adjuster til the lever is about half way to the grip. Turn the adjuster screw in til it makes contact, keep turning while working the lever, the lever will move out away from the grip. If it moves all the way, loosen the cable adjuster some more, repeat the process. When the lever doesn't move away from the grip anymore while tightening the adjuster screw, the ***** are bottomed out in their ramps. Now you can make sure that the adjuster screw is barely touching the rod, and make sure you have some free play in the lever. Now, back out 1/2 to 1 turn, and adjust the cable."


It's a modified version of the way the manual says to do it, worked great on mine.
so i followed this but backwards by mistake. When I thought I was loosening the cable I was actually tightening. Now the cable is full of slack and it seems the ***** have bottomed out as Metroid mentions. Anyway to resolve this?
 
  #55  
Old 04-27-2021, 07:06 PM
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Try following the directions above frontwards. If that doesn't work, then get back with us.
 
  #56  
Old 10-03-2021, 09:01 PM
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2010 Street Glide brand new stock clutch cable just installed Barnett Scorpion clutch. Adjust at clutch hub. Adjust at cable ran out of threads second new cable. At a loss getting frustrated.
 
  #57  
Old 03-17-2022, 03:05 PM
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Don't know if you solved your issues yet, but if you read up a couple of post you'll see a method posted that may help.
*EDIT* Disregard, I didn't realize I was reviving a thread from the dead! Lol
 

Last edited by Goose575; 03-17-2022 at 03:10 PM.
  #58  
Old 06-14-2022, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by cruzmisl
If you have the stock cable you have other issues that need to be sorted.
Can you be a bit more specific about what you mean by 'issues' ?

3 years ago I went from OEM to Barnett on my FXDX. First thing I noticed is that it was much thinner then original. Didn't look as reliable, but the repairshop promised me it'll be allright. Now it's starting to break already (approx 10000 / 15000 miles) and I just ordered an original one. Hope it'll survive until delivery time.

Would you really recommend Barnett over OEM? Why?
 

Last edited by Dagobert; 06-14-2022 at 07:56 AM. Reason: (forgot to mention what model bike)
  #59  
Old 05-06-2023, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mertoid
Before you replace the cable or add a spacer, try this;


"Loosen cable adjuster til the lever is about half way to the grip. Turn the adjuster screw in til it makes contact, keep turning while working the lever, the lever will move out away from the grip. If it moves all the way, loosen the cable adjuster some more, repeat the process. When the lever doesn't move away from the grip anymore while tightening the adjuster screw, the ***** are bottomed out in their ramps. Now you can make sure that the adjuster screw is barely touching the rod, and make sure you have some free play in the lever. Now, back out 1/2 to 1 turn, and adjust the cable.".
I installed a new clutch cable. It is the exact same length as the original cable I replaced. However, I now run out of threads at the cable adjuster. I did the procedure above three times, but it didn’t help. Besides adding a spacer at the clutch cable lever, is there anything else I might try?
 
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