sorry meant baby shampoo for cleaning not clay work but it does work well with the clay as thats what i use and im an ex detailer for mercedes and other top manufactures

 

I read somewhere a while back to never use dish washing liquid as it's not good for the paint because of the Ph.

 

Clay bars do not remove paint. They pull contaminants out of the paint.

To the OP.... You need to know what the particles or specs are before just rubbing a clay bar over them.

I worked in an autobody shop for a living at one time.

 

Yeah dawn may strip off your wax .. But using a clay bar is gonna strip off you wax as well. So if you do clay make sure at a minimum to apply a coat of wax or sealant afterwards

 

IMO the clay bar yield excellent results. I have tried clay bars from a few different manufacturers with varied results. For the past few years I have been using Griot's products with much success. The clay bar needs a lubricant to glide along the surface, more than just water in my experience. Maybe even soapy water could work if you want to use just water. Griot's (which I have no affiliation, just like the results of their products) recommends Speed Shine while using their clay bar. This provides the lubrication for the clay to glide along your surface so the clay bar can remove contaminants on your paint. The first time I used the clay bar I was totally amazed at the junk it pulled off my paint. I couldn't believe how smooth my paint was after all the grease, tar, ect. was removed from the surface. Then following up with a good paint sealant or wax of your choice really makes it worth while. I find the wax to last longer if prep'd with the clay bar as well. The clay bar process is used on all my vehicles, daily drivers more than others. I've even used it on our black show car. It removed rubber from the rear quarters, to slight tar spray on the roof. Once your paint is washed and dry, run you hand over the paint, if it drags, or you feel little bumps or debris on your paint, it is time for the clay bar. Take your time, allow the clay bar to do the work. Good Luck to a better paint.

Here at the products I am using:

Clay Bar
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ks&from=Search

Speed Shine
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ks&from=Search

 

I have been using a clay bar ever since they were first introduced...it's gotta be 20 years now. I absolutely love the results.

Most important things:
1) Make sure you wash and properly dry the surface.
2) Only use clay in the shade, on a cool surface...this helps keep your lubrication from evaporating.
3) DO NOT USE WATER, it's too abrasive and it really has no lubrication to it.
4) Always use lots of quick detailer(something slick that you can feel in your fingers), not a quick wax(I use Purple Slice, works GREAT!)
5) Always work in the same direction with little to no pressure
6) Take your time
7) Keep the clay clean: kneed it regularly to keep the contaminants off the surface.
8) Try using it in an inconspicuous spot before you use it in the middle of your fender or on top of your tank.
9) Work in a small area at a time with overlapping...this way you don't miss a spot.
10) Try and stay away from dull surfaces like rubber moldings, tires, rough engine surfaces or denim paints.
11) Feel the surface and make sure it is free of whatever is on the paint before you are done.
12) wax the surface when your done.

I have seen clay bars do amazing things, like remove overspray, remove rusty iron(rail dust) from a pearl white paint job, minor sap residue, remove water spots/calcification), mild rust from chrome, mild paint oxidization, mild plastic oxidization(cleaning newer style headlamps that get chalky)...and more. I use my old bars to clean my car windshields and the side mirrors. Cleans the debris off relatively simple.

This reminds me that it's time to order another 1 or 2 of them to have around the garage.

 

Try the Chemical Guys, and watch the clay bar video:


http://www.chemicalguys.com/clay_bar...ioning_s/7.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxfUv...4&feature=plcp

 

That.

I use clay on my dark vehicles including the Vivid Black Ultra. Never a problem. I use Griots Speed Shine (and plenty of it!) to lube the clay and surface. Then I use Griots #2 Polish (no, not every time, just occasionally) to get ride of those nasty marks that even the softest cloth can leave in black paint, then Best in Show wax (there's much better waxs out there - I'm researching that now). I use spray the speed shine on the dried wax to remove it - less scratching in my experience. I can park my car in the sun and it looks like it's coated with a shiny layer of oil - nice and black, shiny, no scratches. I also use old bath towels. I just don't get good results with microfiber.

 

Its not rocket science. You'll hear the contaminants being removed as you go along.

Its nearly impossible to damage paint with a clay bar

 

I've used Meguiars clay bars and spray detailer for lubricant for years. I have a black crew cab pick up, black SG, black jeep wrangler, black and burgundy bass boat and wife has a burgundy Denali....I go through spray detailer around here pretty quick...I need to buy Meguiars wax, polish and detailer in 55 gal drums. Visit Meguiars web site for the How to clay bar or search you tube. Your paint finish will be awesome if you polish and wax with a Portable Cable ORBITAL foam pad polisher...then use a Orbital Wax Coa machine with micro fiber bonnets to remove the polish and wax.