The M-6 chain tensioner is spring actuated and has been in my bike for 12 years and 109,000 miles. ( No ratcheting up.)

Everything, ( even the clutch plates,) is still original in the primary. 5000 mile oil changes on $2.37 a quart 10W-40 cheap dino oil.

Want to even try and imagine how much stress occurs to the primary bearing and crankcase bearings under any acceleration? Way more than a too tight primary chain I'd venture. I'd be looking more toward wobbly crankshafts myself. I believe it's a design/engineering failure on newer bikes. It doesn't seem to happen on older bikes like mine typically.

( I think I'll keep my 2000 Road Glide forever given all the crap that happens to the "new and improved" Harleys.)

 

Nice photo! This is definitely spalling from a radial overload condition caused by misalignment. The dark band around the shaft bushing is the bearing inner path, as you can see the fault originated on the inner portion of this band and migrated out. That is is from a misalignment condition putting a radial overload on that inner portion of the bushing/inner race. The misalignment could be from the main shaft thrusting out (not being held), or the drive train torquing the chain drive out of alignment. Lots of possible root causes. The failure mode is definitely from radial overload due to misalignment.

See this document on the subject, pages 12-14. http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...ochure5892.pdf

Good luck!

 

From the above linked document, it says is better than I can/did.

Geometric Stress Concentration (GSC) Spalling

This mode is the result of misalignment, deflection or edge loading that
initiates high stress at localized regions of the bearing (Fig. 23). The
damage occurs at the extreme edges of the race/roller paths. It also can

be the end result of machining errors with the shaft or the housing

See your photo!

http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/...rent=image.jpg

 

Very interesting reading. So here's how it went today. I took the parts and bike to the dealer to have the bearings pressed in out and in and the race changed on the trans main shaft. They spent a lot of time on it and then told me they were refunding my money for all of the parts related to changing the bearing. I think they got a better look at what they installed 9 months ago and found a problem with the parts or their work. They said it was a customer satisfaction refund. They still charged me 2 hours labor for the bearings and race, but I got money back. I paid for the compensator and got some satisfaction with doing most of the labor myself. Final cost was $320 and after a short test ride it sounds fine. The test will be how the compensator sounds when I start it hot. But if this bearing lasts longer than the other two I'm satisfied

 

It's still a lot of money but, you have the satisfaction of them "admitting" there was a mistake made. At least they were honest and put their hand up to it (maybe not openly but,)

 

Anyone else try or use one of these new tensioners for the new 6 speeds?

http://www.haydensm6.com/m6_bt07.htm

Watch the video and see how much movement there is.

 

Just something to think about in the future. when a seal goes bad, a high percentage of the time, it is because you have a bearing going bad on that shaft.

 

Well - shoot - that's not quite the way I understand that part. It's got plently of notches - in fact the instructions for installation are to set it loose and let it ratchet up automatically. It doesn't automatically loosen once it's adjusted too tight.

 

Nice description but no mention of a forum discount......What you say!!!!!!

 

So it appears that Kathy Haydenent has been booted from the site? I did a member search and could not find her.
I have been researching the Hayden M6 in its various iterations, and the auto adjusters intended to replace the factory manual adjusters seem to be generally held in high regard by may end users..
I decided to order one for my '09 bagger, and install it when I do my SE compensator (which is on the brown truck somewhere), but every vendor I contacted has pulled this particular model from their Hayden listings. I tried calling Hayden, but voicemail says they are at a trade show, and closed for now.
Is anyone using a Hayden M6 as a replacement for the stock HD auto chain tensioner?