Input wanted on pulling a trailer
#12
05-22-2012, 11:29 AM
I've pulled an inexpensive (leaf spring) trailer with a '92 Heritage, and an Escape (air suspension) trailer with my '95 Heritage and my 2000 Ultra Classic (to Alaska).
The better the trailer, the better they pull and the air shocks eliminates most of the bouncing.
My cousin has a "store bought" trailer frame (Sears perhaps) with a fiberglass shell mounted on it and he pulls it with an '82 Low Rider.
He says it's OK to about 60-65MPH but after that the trailer starts swaying.
Pulling a trailer you do feel a little push when stopping but the most noticeable feeling is during slow turns and of course pulling on inclines.
To me, it's not much difference than pulling a trailer with a truck or car and you must be careful on wet roads and use your gears to assist in getting the trailer slowed down or stopped safely.
A "swivel hitch" is must and a converter is needed to accomodate the wiring because of the two brake light switches.
Of most importance is the maintaining of tires and wheel bearings.
A blowout, or a seized wheel bearing can cause a loss of control of the bike.
The better the trailer, the better they pull and the air shocks eliminates most of the bouncing.
My cousin has a "store bought" trailer frame (Sears perhaps) with a fiberglass shell mounted on it and he pulls it with an '82 Low Rider.
He says it's OK to about 60-65MPH but after that the trailer starts swaying.
Pulling a trailer you do feel a little push when stopping but the most noticeable feeling is during slow turns and of course pulling on inclines.
To me, it's not much difference than pulling a trailer with a truck or car and you must be careful on wet roads and use your gears to assist in getting the trailer slowed down or stopped safely.
A "swivel hitch" is must and a converter is needed to accomodate the wiring because of the two brake light switches.
Of most importance is the maintaining of tires and wheel bearings.
A blowout, or a seized wheel bearing can cause a loss of control of the bike.
I pulled a "home built" trailer on a Harbor Freight chassis 3600 miles on a trip 3 years ago.
Last edited by slhanks4; 05-22-2012 at 11:33 AM.
#13
05-22-2012, 11:30 AM
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Now don't take me wrong with my comment about Trailers here But! Last time I did a ride like that down from Canada through to the Grand Canyon, I made the mistake of thinkin camping was going to be the answer!
Well after haulin all of the so-called campin paraphernalia down and setting up one night and then trying to pack everything back to where it once was before i unpacked it.... I went immediately to the UPS store and shipped-er home.
Cost me 200 bucks to ship it - but - from then on in for 50 bucks a night found me a nice place almost anywhere, with TV, shower, Microwave and have since given the campin thought a pass.
Well after haulin all of the so-called campin paraphernalia down and setting up one night and then trying to pack everything back to where it once was before i unpacked it.... I went immediately to the UPS store and shipped-er home.
Cost me 200 bucks to ship it - but - from then on in for 50 bucks a night found me a nice place almost anywhere, with TV, shower, Microwave and have since given the campin thought a pass.
#14
05-22-2012, 11:33 AM
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Don't let anyone scare you about pulling a trailer. I've been pulling one for years. All around the western United States. Other than a little slower braking AND GRABBING ANOTHER gear climbing grades no problem. Make sure you have it loaded right, you need a little tounge weight , for it to pull right. Mine a home built , started with solid axle suspension, then upgraded to torsion axles. have had it up to 85 MPH when the conditions are right, although I don't recommend that fast.
#15
05-22-2012, 12:06 PM
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i definately wouldnt let anyone scare you off. ive pulled mine for about 30,000 miles now, never a problem. its a harbour freight frame w a car topper on it. straight axle/leaf spring. i run about 15# air in the tires, and get about 20k miles out of a set. my tongue is NOT extended (that looks so stupid)and never a single sway. load yer heavy stuff over your axle, and light stuff to the rear. ive also run this set up behind multiple bikes, and at speeds of up to 90mph(making time across washington). also no need to run special adapters because of two seperate brake switches.......just tapped into the wire feeding the brake lights under the seat. you do have to use seperate signal lights though, not just the cheapy tail/signal/brake that come with them.
#16
05-22-2012, 01:20 PM
Lots of great info here. So I see there are those that run the smaller diameter "Harbor freight" tires and wheels, then those running the taller setup? Advantage to one over the other? I was thinking about finding a set of HD front wheels, and removing the rotor - would that work?
I am going for an all aluminum tube chassis - its only going to hold 2 cots, large tent, cooler, two chairs, and tent heater. I want to get it as light as possible, but it will have to be longer than a car topper to handle those items.
I am going for an all aluminum tube chassis - its only going to hold 2 cots, large tent, cooler, two chairs, and tent heater. I want to get it as light as possible, but it will have to be longer than a car topper to handle those items.
#17
05-22-2012, 01:31 PM
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Have you ever considered a single wheeled trailer - http://n-line.com/photos/
Saw these trailers in Milwaukee a couple of years ago - Stunning , now that I see you are talking about matching wheels with the bike - spend the money - these are incredible, uni is another make - You can literally do u-turns and the trailer follows you wherever you go ....
Saw these trailers in Milwaukee a couple of years ago - Stunning , now that I see you are talking about matching wheels with the bike - spend the money - these are incredible, uni is another make - You can literally do u-turns and the trailer follows you wherever you go ....
#18
05-22-2012, 06:14 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
I have a bushtec trailer and if it is loaded properly you really don't know it is back there. A little more on the throttle and brake, pay attention to pulling into fuel stations and parking lots and all is good. As far as camping it aint happening, me and the wife enjoy a hot shower and a bed after a days ride. Touring with a trailer formme is the only way to go it keeps the wife happy as she can bring her necessities.
#20
05-23-2012, 09:13 AM
I pulled a Home made pop-up camper. Built it on a harbor frieght chasis and used sambrella for the tent material. I used it for almost 5 years till I recently bought the Road Glide Ultra.
While I loved having the ability to camp the cost of campgrounds are getting as expensive as hotels. Most of the time I am only looking at 1 night at a campground but many have a multi night policy.
A couple of things to remember.
no more then 25# on the tongue
8" trailer tires should not be inflated more then about 15-20# (This will help even with leaf springs)
Braking distance is definatly increased (I use shift braking to avoid any issues) Think about your stop long before you make it.
Left and right turns you will feel some "pulling" don't panic ride through it.
Your milege will be at least 8-10mpg less. I had a 2006 Road King 88CI with stage 1.
My trailer when loaded was aprox 230-300# just remember it is behind you.
While I loved having the ability to camp the cost of campgrounds are getting as expensive as hotels. Most of the time I am only looking at 1 night at a campground but many have a multi night policy.
A couple of things to remember.
no more then 25# on the tongue
8" trailer tires should not be inflated more then about 15-20# (This will help even with leaf springs)
Braking distance is definatly increased (I use shift braking to avoid any issues) Think about your stop long before you make it.
Left and right turns you will feel some "pulling" don't panic ride through it.
Your milege will be at least 8-10mpg less. I had a 2006 Road King 88CI with stage 1.
My trailer when loaded was aprox 230-300# just remember it is behind you.