I thought of that too. But I don't think that's the problem. For one thing it doesn't have time to heat up. It can happen within 15 minutes. Plus I'm using the bracket and installation provided by JM. They have millions of them out there and I'm sure if heating was a problem they'd have addressed that by now. But thanks for the idea.

Yes, separate channels. Front channels from the standard outs on the main plug on the back of the head unit. Rear channels from the rear outs on the second plug on the back of the head unit. Hey, you know that is one difference that might explain the problem suddenly occuring now. Maybe because the head unit is now powering 4 outputs it has the extra load it can't handle and shuts down. hmmmm. I otta try disconnecting the rears from the headunit and amp and see if it will work with just the fronts. That might explain it.


The amp came configured to run from 2 inputs and power 4 speakers. They made the cable for me to run from 4 inputs so I could make use of the factory fader. hmmm. you've given me a good avenue for testing SG Mike.

 

Sounds like you have a bad radio to me. Go to the sticky's (front page of touring section) to see the error code your head unit is putting out. My guess is it is rear speakers short circuiting.

Mike

 

With a multimeter you could run a continuity check on it...probably a long shot but you know the deal about simple things first.

 

When I hooked up my RF, it said specifically not to hook the ground up to the battery directly. I never asked why so ran it somewhere else. Just a thought.

 

In regards to not having time to heat up, mine cut out 5 miles down the road. After 10 minutes would start again the quit again.

 

That sounds like a overheat/overload issue. Next time you take the fairing off, try playing it till it shuts off, and feel how hot the amp is. Try turning down the gain. Here's a link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6C5MiRGq1Y

Also, check for resistance between grounding point and battery neg. If anything higher than 1 ohm, I'd sand down where you ground it at to bare metal, use double teeth lock washers, i.e. ground screw, teeth washer, ground terminal, then teeth washer again. Then silicone the exposed screw and frame to avoid corrosion.

Let us know how this work out.

 

I am actually taking it in to my friendly neighborhood stealer. I spoke with him on the phone. It is under warranty so he said he'll hook it up to the computer and if he sees anything wrong will replace it no questions.

Well the wire is doing what it's supposed to when the fairing is off. When the switch is off, voltage is zero, turn on the ignition and I get +12 on that line. Now if it shorts out when I'm riding I have no idea.

I did try to repeat the problem with the fairing off last time I had it apart. It was in the garage blasting rock and roll for a good hour and didn't cut out. I'm sure the neighbors are impressed. Stupid thing didn't cut out. i will watch that vid when I have some time, and will take the fairing off again. I think I'll just eliminate the amp and hook the speakers up to the head unit and see if I can dupicate the problem that way. If I can it will be a good success.

 

Hey Zeus,

If you weren't able to recreate the problem in the garage then that makes me think you have a loose connection going to the amp. Look at the amp on/off wire to make sure it's not coming loose or your amp power wiring that might be coming loose and causing the amp to turn off to protect itself.

Mike