My roadking has begun to stall when warm,idle is too low.Idle is fine when cold,when warm the bike idles rough/low. I have no trouble codes.I cleaned the IAC with carb cleaner.It was filthy but low idle problem still persisits.Bike has stage 1 pc3 with15 k miles trouble free until now.I just ordered a new TPS.I am beginning the process of elimination. Anyone out there with the same problem?

 

Yeah, I have intermittent problems with low idle, sometimes dies... coughs when I start off and tries to die..... sometimes it feels like it just won't turn up when I hit the gas.
Nothing that lasts for more than a little while usually. It hasn't done it long enough at one time to really **** me off enough to start down the list of things that can be wrong other than spraying carb cleaner in the IAC hole. I'm figuring it's probably the TPS is dirty. If it ever starts getting worse, I'll probably start there trying to figure it out.

 

My 2007 had a similar issue and it turned out to be the crank position sensor. What would happen is that I would ride it and when I would stop at a light or something it would idle low, spit and then die. I could shut it down and start it back up again and it would work fine. Once the CKP was replaced it never happened again.

 

My 2000 Road King (fuel injected) does the same thing. May have to see if that will be the fix. Thanks

 

One of ours does that too!! Let me know if you figure it out. We're in the process of elimination too

 

My 07 Ultra did the same thing last year, about 3 times. Hasn't happened since, so I never fooled with it

 

After re-reading this I was wondering if you took the PC out of the equation to see if it changed anything. If it did, you may want to re-download your map into the unit to see if something got zapped in it. Also, don't forget to zero out the throttle position.

 

Found this old thread on it.............. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...le-issues.html

seems a bunch of people have been having the issue..... apparently either IAC or TPS and now from what TICK TOCK said possibly a CPS for low idle. Maybe TPS or FUEL FILTER AND LINES for sluggishness....

I guess if it gets bad enough I'll start throwing money at it... right now I've already done about $1000 worth of needed stuff to it this year.... anything else is going to have to be a necessity, not a to fix something that I only have a problem with very sporadically

 

Did you cycle the IAC on and off several times when you cleaned it?

 

Did a little more research.................This is description of what the CPS does.



The crank position sensor is a variable reluctance (VR) sensor

that generates an AC signal by sensing the passing of the 30

teeth machined in the left side flywheel.Two consecutive teeth

are missing in the flywheel to establish a reference point. The

crank position sensor sends a signal to the electronic control

module which is used to reference engine position (TDC) and

engine speed.



How about the IAC:



IAC - Idle Air Control - An electric valve or stepper motor that's threaded, one turn of the valve is called a "step". It's controlled by output signals from the ECM to open and close as needed to allow enough air into the engine for starting and idle operation. It's function is to bypass the throttle blade in the intake and allow enough air to bypass the throttle blade to run the engine.(Throttle closed) The more steps, the greater the amount of air enters the engine through the IAC passages. It's that black unit you can see just inside and over the top of the air cleaner.
From time to time they get gummed up from the oil mist that enters from the engine breathers and need to be cleaned out. If you look inside the throttle body there's a hole in the upper portion and that is what needs to be cleaned out. You'll usually see some black gunk come out when you clean it. The problem it gives you when it needs cleaning is an erratic idle speed and stalling and usually does not set a code unless they fail.
A can of carb cleaner will do the trick here. One thing is to blow the carb cleaner out with some low pressure air or the other sensors in the intake will set codes from the carb cleaner.
If you don't have any low pressure air to blow it out, just let it air dry for a while before turning on the ignition
My 2000 Road King is fuel injected, to me this sounds like it's for a carb not fuel injection. Has this worked for anyone?