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  #21  
Old 05-19-2012 | 02:14 PM
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racklefratz
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Originally Posted by TheArchitect
I know, amazing, right? Would you believe I use other silly things like the turn signals and the high beam switch too?
Point was the redundancy. There aren't any redundant switches for turn signals, etc.

I suppose if you have one bike to your name and it's one with the center-mounted ignition switch you could forego the kill switch. I don't, I have four and the ignition switches are in very inconvenient locations on two of them. So I use the kill switch on all of them, old habit.


I've owned numerous bikes with ignition switches mounted in every conceivable location and still never wanted to mess with that abominable switch. It's an open invitation to leaving the ignition on and lights running, depleting the battery, as well as odd issues like you had with your PV.
 

Last edited by racklefratz; 05-19-2012 at 02:35 PM.
  #22  
Old 05-19-2012 | 03:28 PM
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I don't know what all the fuss is with the switch. Mine is always on run, when I turn my ignition off the bike is off, when I turn the ignition on the bike is on. Like someone else posted, fail safe way to not leave the ignition on and drain your battery.
 
  #23  
Old 05-19-2012 | 10:18 PM
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TheArchitect
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Well I put a couple more rides on mine today and I can tell a difference in performance now that I've gotten to wring it out some more. It's not a night-and-say difference, but it definitely pulls harder throughout. When I rode it earlier it was super-windy which was probably masking the performance improvement.


Originally Posted by racklefratz
It's an open invitation to leaving the ignition on and lights running, depleting the battery, as well as odd issues like you had with your PV.
That's total crap. I've logged 42 years of riding and using kill switches and have had zero problems. The deal with the PV was not an "odd issue", it was a simple matter of getting an error message and flipping the switch and trying again. They should have mentioned it in the instructions but they didn't, that's why I mentioned it, so that others could take note of it.
 

Last edited by TheArchitect; 05-20-2012 at 12:43 AM. Reason: typos
  #24  
Old 05-22-2012 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by TheArchitect
The deal with the PV was not an "odd issue", it was a simple matter of getting an error message and flipping the switch and trying again. They should have mentioned it in the instructions but they didn't, that's why I mentioned it, so that others could take note of it.
Yeah, "they" did. If you'd bothered to use the WinPV User Guide, you'd have seen it on pages 80, 84, 85, 88, 91, and 116.
 

Last edited by racklefratz; 05-22-2012 at 12:24 PM.
  #25  
Old 05-22-2012 | 12:09 PM
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delete
 

Last edited by bobbyasu99; 05-22-2012 at 12:16 PM.
  #26  
Old 05-22-2012 | 02:19 PM
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hythomasf
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PV arrived, installation/upload was easy. Little test drive felt different with lower idle rpm, no decel popping, 3rd and 4th gear good performance. so far great change.
 
  #27  
Old 05-22-2012 | 03:29 PM
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iclick
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Originally Posted by Keithhu
You would either use a PC-V or a Powervision. The PV does have an auto-tune option which uses wideband sensors.
"Auto tune" is hard to define and I see it used to describe a number of functions, but to me it is the ability of the tuning device to tune the vehicle while you ride or drive. The PCV with AT does this for AFR's but not for spark advance, but I consider it an auto-tune device even with that limitation. I used the PCV-AT for two years and it worked very well.

I now have the PV and kept the AT-100 kit with WB sensors, but it does not "auto-tune" by the above definition. What it will do is tune the entire operating range as an open-loop device, what DynoJet calls "Pro Tuning." IOW, you log 11 parameters from the ECM and two from the WB sensors (front and rear cyl.), then let the PV Tune software juggle the numbers and create a new tune, with a few other steps in between. This works well too and although the WB sensors can't interact with the ECM it can tune in this fashion as well as allow you to monitor AFR's while riding. The PV has a cool display unit that can show numerous ECM and other parameters in real time.

Warning: I'm getting off on another tangent here, but...

If you want to use the AT module and run in closed-loop you'd need to replace the WB sensors with the stock NB units after tweaking your tune, or better yet weld another set of 18mm bungs on your pipes and run two O2 sensors for each cylinder. Then you could tune in open-loop mode and after that's done change to closed-loop without removing or reinstalling any hardware.

If you don't have the AT-100 kit and use the stock O2 sensors you can tune in limited closed-loop, called "Basic Tuning," mostly just at idle and the cruise range. This is the way most people tune with the PV.

There's also speculation that in the future there may be a true AT kit available that will allow closed-loop operation with the WB O2 sensors. Stay tuned.
 

Last edited by iclick; 05-22-2012 at 03:32 PM.
  #28  
Old 05-22-2012 | 03:40 PM
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Talldog
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Installed the PV, Power Duals, SE Ventilator Air Cleaner, and Rinehart 4" Slip-Ons a while back.

Got everything from FM except the SE Air Cleaner.

The MAP that FM loaded on the PV is perfect, bike runs great, I highly recommend them.
 
  #29  
Old 05-22-2012 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Fire-Medic
I don't know what all the fuss is with the switch. Mine is always on run, when I turn my ignition off the bike is off, when I turn the ignition on the bike is on. Like someone else posted, fail safe way to not leave the ignition on and drain your battery.
My point, EXACTLY. Thank you.

The silly and duplicative "Run/Off" switch only serves to add unnecessary complications to operating our motorcycles. There's no way to put a happy face on it. Just leave the damned thing in the "Run" position and forget about it. Problems solved.
 
  #30  
Old 05-22-2012 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by iclick
There's also speculation that in the future there may be a true AT kit available that will allow closed-loop operation with the WB O2 sensors. Stay tuned.
If/when things ever get to the point that "auto-tuning" becomes possible using the OEM O2 sensors, we will have arrived. All the multiple bung sizing, adding aftermarket O2 sensors..yada, yada, leaves me cold. Not the least bit interested. If technology's not there, so be it.

Until then, I'll just resign myself to accept the current limitations of the PV, and wish for more.
 

Last edited by racklefratz; 05-22-2012 at 06:58 PM.


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