Clutch adjustment question
#31
05-03-2012, 09:34 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Think you got it but you hold the screw, tighten the lock nut. The plate the screw is in is keyed to the pull in pressure plate. This is it with the lock nut off and it pulled out of pressure plate. I use short allen wrench and off set short box wrench to hold and lock it. I do not have a setup for any torque wrench that will work. Just use short wrenches and bump it.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 11:24 AM.
#32
05-03-2012, 11:04 AM
"Seeker of Freedom"
#33
05-03-2012, 11:36 AM
Dude! My clutch adjustment process is absolutely sound. And if you think it is the absolute worst possible way to adjust the clutch, then you don't have a very good understanding of how the clutch and all of its linkages work.
The bottom line when adjusting the clutch is that you must have some freeplay, both inside the cover and at the lever to ensure full clutch engagement. This is the most important aspect of the adjustment relative to clutch function and any potential slippage and/or clutch life. If you are going to error one way or the other, it's always better to error towards more freeplay.
Then if you want to alter the engagement point, adjusting the cable is the easiest way to do this. In fact, if you have the inside the cover adjustment at the looser end of the tolerance, and the clutch engagement is still too far from the grip for your personal preference, loosening the cable is the only way to move the engagement closer to the grip.
One point where you are correct is that my clutch engages close to the grip because it is barely disengaged. That is the whole point. That is where I prefer the adjustment to be and that is the point of the OPs original question in this thread. As long as the clutch disengages enough to shift and find nuetral, it doesn't need to disengage any farther.
I never said I have one inch of cable movement for freeplay. I said I have approximately one inch of lever freeplay measured at the tip of the lever which equates to approximately 3/16" of cable freeplay. You may have misinterpretted what I said earlier. Go back and re-read what I wrote and I think you'll see.
The bottom line when adjusting the clutch is that you must have some freeplay, both inside the cover and at the lever to ensure full clutch engagement. This is the most important aspect of the adjustment relative to clutch function and any potential slippage and/or clutch life. If you are going to error one way or the other, it's always better to error towards more freeplay.
Then if you want to alter the engagement point, adjusting the cable is the easiest way to do this. In fact, if you have the inside the cover adjustment at the looser end of the tolerance, and the clutch engagement is still too far from the grip for your personal preference, loosening the cable is the only way to move the engagement closer to the grip.
One point where you are correct is that my clutch engages close to the grip because it is barely disengaged. That is the whole point. That is where I prefer the adjustment to be and that is the point of the OPs original question in this thread. As long as the clutch disengages enough to shift and find nuetral, it doesn't need to disengage any farther.
I never said I have one inch of cable movement for freeplay. I said I have approximately one inch of lever freeplay measured at the tip of the lever which equates to approximately 3/16" of cable freeplay. You may have misinterpretted what I said earlier. Go back and re-read what I wrote and I think you'll see.
I've seen other posts and know you're usually on the money.
#34
05-03-2012, 12:12 PM
2black1s,
I like to have a good understanding of the mechanics of what I'm working on and after reading what you've said and looking at the manual some more, you have she'd light on the subject for me. There is only so much adjustment under the cover. 1/2 to 1 fully turn loose from full clutch engagement. From there the only adjustment left to move the full clutch engagement point relative to the lever off the handle is the cable adjuster. I understand how it works now. Thanks for your replies.
I like to have a good understanding of the mechanics of what I'm working on and after reading what you've said and looking at the manual some more, you have she'd light on the subject for me. There is only so much adjustment under the cover. 1/2 to 1 fully turn loose from full clutch engagement. From there the only adjustment left to move the full clutch engagement point relative to the lever off the handle is the cable adjuster. I understand how it works now. Thanks for your replies.
my problem is just the opposite, engaging too soon...seems the bike wants to pull ahead at a stop light while in gear and clutch lever all the way in actually butted up against the grip,
btw... service dept. at the HD dealer just recently adjusted it.
also, I noticed the cable adjuster is closed/tightened to the max to where there are no threads showing, will spreading the cable adjuster out more help with clutch engaging too soon?
btw... service dept. at the HD dealer just recently adjusted it.
also, I noticed the cable adjuster is closed/tightened to the max to where there are no threads showing, will spreading the cable adjuster out more help with clutch engaging too soon?
I would start by checking the adjustment inside the cover. See where it's at now. If it's looser than the recommended tight side of the tolerance (1/2 turn), then readjust it to 1/2 turn. If necessary, you could probably go a little tighter than 1/2 turn but you have to be careful if you do this as lack of freeplay will cause clutch slippage.
Then once the inside the cover adjustment is made, adjust the cable to provide the engagement point you prefer. This is a trial and error adjustment - just play with it until you're happy. Remember, you can't remove all of the freeplay without risking damage (slippage) to the clutch.
I've never done this before and point 5 is a little confusing - at least to me. Point 5 states "Tighten the jamnut to 72-120 in-lbs". Are you to tighten the jamnut (as in the diagram figure 27) or the locknut (as in the diagram figure 28)? I think they meant the locknut - is this correct? If it's the locknut how do you get a torque wrench on it when you have an allen wrench in the clutch adjuster screw?
As for the torque wrench, if you have a feel for tightening fasteners the torque wrench is not necessary. If you do not have a good feel, then by all means get a wrench set-up that will allow you to use a torque wrench.
Yes.
I didn't say anything but I read your post wrong also. I pictured the lever flopping back and forth with an inch of freeplay in the cable. I thought surely that's not what he means. 3/16 sounds more like it. Looser than I like but I like mine to engage farther out.
I've seen other posts and know you're usually on the money.
I've seen other posts and know you're usually on the money.
Last edited by 2black1s; 05-03-2012 at 12:24 PM.
#35
05-03-2012, 12:20 PM
Supporter
#36
05-03-2012, 12:56 PM
Road Master
The term "jamnut" and "locknut" are used interchageably in the manual. The meaning and the item they're referring to are one and the same.
As for the torque wrench, if you have a feel for tightening fasteners the torque wrench is not necessary. If you do not have a good feel, then by all means get a wrench set-up that will allow you to use a torque wrench.
#37
05-03-2012, 05:39 PM
[QUOTE=2black1s;9750120]Dude! My clutch adjustment process is absolutely sound. And if you think it is the absolute worst possible way to adjust the clutch, then you don't have a very good understanding of how the clutch and all of its linkages work.
The bottom line when adjusting the clutch is that you must have some freeplay, both inside the cover and at the lever to ensure full clutch engagement. This is the most important aspect of the adjustment relative to clutch function and any potential slippage and/or clutch life. If you are going to error one way or the other, it's always better to error towards more freeplay.
Then if you want to alter the engagement point, adjusting the cable is the easiest way to do this. In fact, if you have the inside the cover adjustment at the looser end of the tolerance, and the clutch engagement is still too far from the grip for your personal preference, loosening the cable is the only way to move the engagement closer to the grip.
One point where you are correct is that my clutch engages close to the grip because it is barely disengaged. That is the whole point. That is where I prefer the adjustment to be and that is the point of the OPs original question in this thread. As long as the clutch disengages enough to shift and find nuetral, it doesn't need to disengage any farther.
Having owned dirt and street bikes since 1965 and only having 2 bikes in a shop, all major engine mods, I think I know a bit about how clutches work.
Do you remember when you had to adjust 6-8 nuts behind springs to properly adjust a clutch?
Anyway, I guess we'll just agree to disagree on how to reach the desired level of engagement.
The bottom line when adjusting the clutch is that you must have some freeplay, both inside the cover and at the lever to ensure full clutch engagement. This is the most important aspect of the adjustment relative to clutch function and any potential slippage and/or clutch life. If you are going to error one way or the other, it's always better to error towards more freeplay.
Then if you want to alter the engagement point, adjusting the cable is the easiest way to do this. In fact, if you have the inside the cover adjustment at the looser end of the tolerance, and the clutch engagement is still too far from the grip for your personal preference, loosening the cable is the only way to move the engagement closer to the grip.
One point where you are correct is that my clutch engages close to the grip because it is barely disengaged. That is the whole point. That is where I prefer the adjustment to be and that is the point of the OPs original question in this thread. As long as the clutch disengages enough to shift and find nuetral, it doesn't need to disengage any farther.
Having owned dirt and street bikes since 1965 and only having 2 bikes in a shop, all major engine mods, I think I know a bit about how clutches work.
Do you remember when you had to adjust 6-8 nuts behind springs to properly adjust a clutch?
Anyway, I guess we'll just agree to disagree on how to reach the desired level of engagement.
#38
05-03-2012, 06:21 PM
Having owned dirt and street bikes since 1965 and only having 2 bikes in a shop, all major engine mods, I think I know a bit about how clutches work.
Do you remember when you had to adjust 6-8 nuts behind springs to properly adjust a clutch?
Anyway, I guess we'll just agree to disagree on how to reach the desired level of engagement.
Do you remember when you had to adjust 6-8 nuts behind springs to properly adjust a clutch?
Anyway, I guess we'll just agree to disagree on how to reach the desired level of engagement.
#39
06-09-2012, 07:36 AM
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